Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi There,

I currently have stock springs and shocks on my R33 gts-t.

I have the following suspension upgrades:

- 17" 235x45 front

- 17" 255x40 rear..

- Front Strut brace

- rear strut brace

I'm fairly happy with the firmness (and don't want to lower it yet)but it just rolls too much.

Looking for a better ride around corners.. essentially More grip............. I have been speaking with Whiteline and am looking at:

- upgrading sway bar front and back

- new camber/caster kit.

Will this make much of a difference? I don't use it on any tracks just street use, and want more corner speed..

Will the camber kit sacrifice launches (due to the wheels not sitting flat on the road)?? or will I not notice it?

Any advice is welcome especially those that have done this mod..

Regards

Rob

Even though I have camber/caster kits on the front of mine and camber kits on the rear I probably wouldn't worry about that until you start messing around with the ride height, unless you are like me and like playing around with different settings. I would definately recommend getting the sway bars. The adjustable ones from whiteline are great value. I would get them followed by a good set of shocks and you corner speed will increase dramatically as long as your tyres are up to the task. I have Bilsteins all round on mine, very nice.

Upgrading the swaybars improves the turn in. It give you that much condifence. I'm still running stock springs and height. No camber kit but probably get castor kit later. I've also got the diff locking bushes. It helps the rear moving too much through a corner.

Thanks for the advice..

So jlnewton,

You replaced your shocks with aftermarket ones.. Did you fit lower springs as well or leave them stadard?

Will it benefit me in anyway upgrading the shocks and leaving the springs standard?

I think for know I will just go adj sway bars (do I need to go front and back?) and then maybe look at replacing the shocks..

Rob

I also have a series 2 R33 and have had the Whiteline Handling pack (adj sway bars + camber/castor) in for about 6 months. I still have the standard spring and shocks.

Basically the day to day ride quality is no different, not too harsh like with uprated springs/shocks.

The main difference is seen when cornering fast. The car is heaps nicer in and out of corners and feels real stable, good feedback through the wheel and doesn't roll around like a bloated whale when you get the power on early.

The best advantage is when (if...?) you get it out on the track. Dial in a stiffer setting and see if you can lift the inside wheel exiting the hairpins.

Then again, if your shocks have seen a fair amount of action it may be worthwhile replacing them as well. The car is only as good as it's weakest link.

Z.

Mine had lowered springs when I got it, but the standard shocks were pretty ordinary. I would do the shocks, just because if they are standard ones, chances are they are the original one and with their age they are probably pretty tired. But if you are doing things in steps like I did, definately get the adj. sway bars first. They will probably give you the most improvement from a street perspective. I would do front and back as this will allow you to adjust car balance. Whiteline had there demo car set on the stiffest setting at the front for cornering and the middle setting for the rear for grip exiting corners for the circuit test comparison in the HPI story. I will give you the flexibility to set the car the way you like it.

I've pretty much got the same story as JLNewton. Got the car with lowered springs and standard shocks, and tyres that had the insides chewed out and the outsides untouched. Handled like a blimp, didn't feel at all confident with turn-in and teh back lurched out of corners something shocking.

enter the whiteline works kit. around $2K fitted, but possibly the best money spent on the car in terms of driving enjoyment.

now the steering is nice and precise, turn in is great, complete confidence in the car doing what i want it to do, and when i want it to. put the power down out of corners and the back end squats and digs in a bit, with minimal slide. great corner speed, and the ride is stiffer but definately not harsh. set up as in above post.

recommended.

just recently installed the whiteline handling pack (adjustable sways, caster and camber kits) plus a rear cross member brace. i have aftermarket springs and oldish shocks...

for the street, NVH has noticeably increased, body roll has decreased & turn in has improved. predictability has also increased.

on the track its a different story. i have massive understeer. turn in is not the greatest and moreso understeer to oversteer is unpredictable.

all of the above is probably due to the fact camber is set to nuetral on the front and the front sway might be on too stiff a setting. tyre pressures were a little high when understeer was at its worst (42psi) so i dropped them to 38psi (hot) and it made a noticeable difference but still understeering badly.

hopefully with some negative camber and softer swaybar setting on the front turn in will be improved and under to over steer more predictable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is anyone running these axles? R32, R33, R34 GTR front Axles. shafts itself rated 950hp. Suit all RB26 engines Croydon, Melbourne, Victoria Would be nice to pay half the cost of Driveshaft Shop Axles. I'm building an AWD S13 Coupe that is very low ride height (high cv angle) compared to stock R32. Has an RB30 with appx 600whp. Just looking for feedback. Thanks, Josh- https://www.instagram.com/feng_shui_garage/
    • Been a long time since r31 got some love, my brother dropped a shitbox ls1 crapadore in my lap to fix up.  Put a wiper motor in as the flooded one was no longer alive.  got windscreen wipers now. Time to clean respray and install back in the titanic  IMG_0505.mov
    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
×
×
  • Create New...