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Your other option is to buy a spray can of hi-fill and prime it with some pinholes. See if the primer makes them disappear. If it does, then you can leave it with pinholes of that size and they will go away when the painter takes over. -
Ah ok. I seem to be mixing it like everyone else does so not sure what's happening. Will experiment with it more. -
Depends on what you mean by OK. First up, was this done cold or hot? Are they reasonably consistent? Yes, they are reasonably consistent. Could be better. But unless it has had a build at some point, it is a ~30 year old engine and you'd expect some variation. Some of the difference could also be in user technique Is it good compression? Well....not numerically, no. New they were >160 psi. The one at 140 would be fine, in that context. If they were all ~140, you'd be reasonably happy. But the one that is @120 is twice as far down from the original numbers as the one @ 140. But.. (again)... technique can play a part in the absolute magnitude of these numbers, and the quality/state of repair/accuracy of the pressure gauge is not known. In the context of the above, the compression tester that was used last on my car is regularly compared to a known good pressure gauge. Not calibrated, exactly, but compared to a reference instrument that is not used for any other purpose, so cops no abuse. So we can trust the measurements off that tester. But another tester in the same workshop wasn't being compared against the standard and was reading a good 30ish psi lower. When you're reading 100 psu but the engine is really doing 130, you can make bad decisions.
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More likely from tiny bubbles in the filler/putty. Maybe be less aggressive when mixing it. Perhaps invest in a vacuum chamber to pull the air bubbles out?** **I don't know if this is a thing for body filler. I see hardcore epoxy makers degassing their mixed resin on the regular.
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IIRC, the speedo on these is fed from the sensor in/on the snout of the diff.
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