Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there is no need to worry about the dec-air settings.

as for the correction settings its best to get it on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor to get it right, every ones is different. just by looking at what mods you list you could count on adding a bit to the high throttle from about 3000rpm onwards. but you still need to see what really happening with a wideband O2 sensor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3483742
Share on other sites

With the Dec-Air settings i remember reading some where in the FAQ/Tutorial section a post of someones settings to fix a car with an atmo BOV from stalling. I tried it on mine but just made the car drive like a bitch when slipping the clutch, kept jerking the car. F**king SAFC's, i want my microtech :no:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3484290
Share on other sites

there is no need to worry about the dec-air settings.

as for the correction settings its best to get it on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor to get it right, every ones is different. just by looking at what mods you list you could count on adding a bit to the high throttle from about 3000rpm onwards. but you still need to see what really happening with a wideband O2 sensor.

i now that i need dyno. but no dyno here. this is my problem. i need some correction hi and low trottle. (after connecting afc neo, ignitiom map changed ) if someone can write settings. what settings you have made by dyno.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3484619
Share on other sites

i now that i need dyno. but no dyno here. this is my problem. i need some correction hi and low trottle. (after connecting afc neo, ignitiom map changed ) if someone can write settings. what settings you have made by dyno.

well i don't have a 33, but i did have a neo in my 32 i little while ago, and with a 33 turbo (bigger than std 32 one) and just on a road tune with a wideband O2 sensor and i only bothered with the HI throttle settings (because i was upgrading soon) from about 2000rpm to 4000 rpm i slowly increased to around +5% correction then from there it increased to around +8% to +10% correction at 7000rpm

i cant remember off the top of my head the exact values (but this is on a 32)

i would think that with a 33 and with the turbo you have said it would be similar if not more fuel added up high.

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3484656
Share on other sites

Just wondering, would it be safe to do that in his case, like i mean without having a wideband O2 sensor, you really have no idea how much you need to correct it by. Let us know if you end up putting those settings in and what kind of difference it feals like it made.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3484879
Share on other sites

its not safe. you need a dyno - you have no idea what you are doing to your air fuel ratios.

2000rpm to 4000 rpm i slowly increased to around +5% correction then from there it increased to around +8% to +10% correction at 7000rpm

thats the opposite to most people.. usually you want to take a bit out of the top end (4000-7000) because the stock ECU runs a bit rich and when you up the boost/free the exhaust it runs even richer. normally its +'s at the low rpm's and -'s at the top end, but again, this will depend heavily on your exact modifications and engine setup.

icemm - there is no point in tuninig your AFC at all without a dyno. you wont get any increased performance without having it done properly on a dyno or at least with a wideband O2 sensor in the car. Leave it all at 0% until you can get it to a dyno - that big turbo will make it tricky to drive around on stock ECU, so keep it off boost till you can get it tuned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3484908
Share on other sites

thats the opposite to most people.. usually you want to take a bit out of the top end (4000-7000) because the stock ECU runs a bit rich and when you up the boost/free the exhaust it runs even richer. normally its +'s at the low rpm's and -'s at the top end, but again, this will depend heavily on your exact modifications and engine setup.

with the stock turbo i had to take some fuel out on top end, but once i put the 33 turbo on i had to add fuel to get a good afr, i do have a wideband o2. but that was on a 32, 33 may be completely different. and like has already been said everyones tune is different.

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3486101
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

k..well mostly all skylines run rich!!

this is because they(nissan) dont want punks up-ing the boost and blowing motors..

dats y they got the boost solenoid too..

so after 5500rpm the boost goes up to 7psi..

as for the APEXI NEO..

search my ppost coz, ive asked this before too..

NEO are great..i gained more power..and an extra bout 100 k's outa my tank..

i believe the NEO doesnt use the low-throttle settings..from wat i can tell

and the dec-air it doesnt use either..u can play round wit it..but i doubt it..

coz i got an atmo bov..but that got correct by adjust the throttle postion sensor..which is connect to the throttle body..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3504578
Share on other sites

k..well mostly all skylines run rich!!

i think this might be true for cars on a lightly modded setup still on stock turbo, this was true on my setup untill i put a larger flowing turbo on, then i got lean mixtures. i have personally seen a couple of 32's with light mods on a dyno lean out to 15s, the tuner runing the dyno had to stop the run to be safe. the scary thing was that the owners of the cars had been driving them hard for ages without knowing :P

i believe the NEO doesnt use the low-throttle settings..from wat i can tell

and the dec-air it doesnt use either..u can play round wit it..but i doubt it..

the NEO does have hi and low throttle settings, its up to whoever is tuning/setting it up to set the change over % levels. and the NEO just like the SAFC II has the DEC-AIR setup but both of them from factory settings arn't enabled/setup yet. nor do you really have to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3504835
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
i think this might be true for cars on a lightly modded setup still on stock turbo, this was true on my setup untill i put a larger flowing turbo on, then i got lean mixtures. i have personally seen a couple of 32's with light mods on a dyno lean out to 15s, the tuner runing the dyno had to stop the run to be safe. the scary thing was that the owners of the cars had been driving them hard for ages without knowing :)

yeah i agree wat was said above...

they do run rich stocker..

only so if people did light mods..they would have to adjust the a/f ratios etc..

but dats y alot of people consider power fc/re-map/motec/haltech/emanage etc..

to fix up problems wit ignition/air-fuel etc.....

the NEO does have hi and low throttle settings, its up to whoever is tuning/setting it up to set the change over % levels. and the NEO just like the SAFC II has the DEC-AIR setup but both of them from factory settings arn't enabled/setup yet. nor do you really have to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-3559731
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

I didn't see a point in making a new thread.

I just wired my afc neo and it works fine, but i am not getting any air flow readings. I've used pin 54, input white & output yellow on the afc, set the hotwire to 4 and 4 and single and single. I haven't adjusted anything but the dec air, this works as i made the car stall and rev higher.

It has me confused as every thread ive read with cars with an afm have air flow readings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194227-afc-neo/#findComment-7250152
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...