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Newbie qns: Possible future Skyline owner...


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Guest Asterix

Hi all, I'm new here.

I currently own a Mazda Astina, but I've always liked the Skylines.

I am thinking of buying an R33 GTS-T as I prefer the look over the R32, and they are cheaper than an R34.

I have never owned a turbo before - have had mates whose turbos have blown. Wondering how reliable they are & what maintenance is involved. I know it depends on how hard they are driven.

I've just started looking around at these cars. I test drove one. It went OK, but I was a bit concerned with the response on gear changes. It was a 5 spd manual & each time the clutch was depressed & the BOV spewed out, it was almost like the brakes were tapped for a second or so. Not smooth like putting in the clutch of any other car? Is this normal?

What else should one look out for when buying one of these?

I noted the post about dodgy bodykits. That was a good one. Can anyone please send me pics or a URL to the pics.:D

I don't expect much negative comment on these cars from a Skyline forum, just any honest advice from past experience with problems or stuff to watch out for.

Mnay Thanx in advance,

Asterix:D

lol.. speak to dj_lethal - he's in melbourne and went from an Astina to an R33 GTS-T as well ;)

Turbo should not blow unless you wind it well beyond its capabilities. Most cases I hear of turbos being blown is people who don't know what they are doing.

That "hesitation" on gear change, especially with a BOV is perfectly normal. The key is basically to flat shit the sucker :D and bang it in as quickly as possible while keeping the revs high. Ok, maybe thats a bit extreme, but in general you have to be a bit quicker on the clutch/upshift than a n/a car. Depends on the clutch too.. if its a heavy duty clutch then that takes a bit of getting used to as well.

Its probably something that seems strange at first getting used to a turbo, but you soon get used to it and begin to love it. Its very hard to go back then :(

i believe "in-gear" lag will be accentuated with an addition of a externally venting BOV. the reason being that the pressure in the pipes will need to be filled again.

and yes, a turbo car is generally quite reliable these days pending the amount of TLC its had...

Also, should you steer clear of a turbo that's been boosted?  This must apply added stress/war to it.

Yes and no.. In Skylines, and Japanese turbo cars in general, they often over-engineer much of the engine to handle much greater stresses than the stock boost levels and everything else.

That in mind, it can handle quite a few power upgrades, but also they have to have been done intelligently and matched with other appropriate upgrades (an aftermarket intercooler is probably a good idea). If this is the case, then reliability shouldn't be an issue. So therefore look for recognised upgrades/tuning history from established performance workshops, or if much of it was done in Japan generally the quality of workmanship is high.

Expect around $500 + fitting for a (2nd hand) stock turbo fitted if blown.

Guest Asterix

Thanks for the sppedy replies guys!

I also was told that an intercooler is a good idea as it sucks in cold air for the turbo to keep it cool.

Mind you, the salesman also told me that a BOV is detrimental for the turbo & makes it work harder.

My Soarer TT mate says that is buls#$t & that it is better for it.

The main problem with R33's is they are getting a bit old and are starting to get the usual old car problems. That includes worn synchros on the gearbox, timing belt, water pump, brakes, fuel pump, turbo, etc. However the engine itself is quite strong, the engine usually does not leak or burn much oil at all. Test the engine compression and if it's good on all cylinders then you've got an engine good for another 50-100k km (or more).

I have a '95 model that's just clicked over 100 000km (based on the condition of the interior and engine I believe it hasn't been wound back) and the only thing "wrong" with it is it crunches on 2nd gear (and sometimes 5th) when cold. Aside from that it feels like a new car to me.

Losing power between gear changes could mean a badly-adjusted bov or a sticky clutch, I don't experience such power loss on my car (atmo bov).

No maintenance is required on turbos. If yours is in good condition and you treat it properly (using good quality synthetic oils and letting it cool before switching off) then it should last as long as your engine. The big problem is being a second hand car means that the previous owners may have not treated it well.

Originally posted by Asterix

Thanks for the sppedy replies guys!

I also was told that an intercooler is a good idea as it sucks in cold air for the turbo to keep it cool.

Mind you, the salesman also told me that a BOV is detrimental for the turbo & makes it work harder.

My Soarer TT mate says that is buls#$t & that it is better for it.

Firstly, don't EVER listen to a word the salesman has to say. They generally don't know their balls from their moustache, and will say ANYTHING and EVERYTHING to try and get you to buy the car, truth or not.

If you have any questions, ask us here, we'll give you the right answer.

In simple terms, the BOV basically vents the air the turbo is pushing into the engine when you step off the gas. The throttle shuts, and the air usually has nowhere to go except back through the piping and hits the turbo, forcing the turbo to stop, and spin backwards. This is called reversion, and is detrimental to turbocharger's lifespan... The BOV is an outlet for the air to go, so it doesn't go back through the piping and hit the turbo. It's a good thing.

The Intercooler is basically like a radiator for your intake air. Cooler air means denser air, which means more power and less chance of detonation. Again, this is a good thing.

An intercooler won't keep your turbo cool as it's installed after the turbo. An oil cooler would be more useful for keeping your turbo cool, but still it's generally overkill for a street-driven car.

intercooler .. depends what boost ur running .. if u want more power to run high boost .. then i guess a bigger IC would be safer .. but if u just want a normal stock standard car .. then the stock intercooler is fine .. just don't go buying a boost controller and try running 20 psi on stock cooler and turbo ...

also a good thing to look out for is if it has an old turbo timer installed (usually means its been on there for a while and the turbo should be in pretty good condition). Ask to see auction papers, service reciepts.

If the ks are well under 100 000 (ie 70, 80 000) check to see if the timing belt has been changed (look to see if the bolts on the cover have been loosened, like burred) that is usually a good indication that the belt has been changed a 100 000 and they have wound the them back.

like any car, there is always some uncertainty when buying. Skylines seem to have a good reputation for a quality car and aftermarket parts are becoming easily accessable too.

Happy hunting

How can anyone confirm something as general as that, even if they lived in Japan? Maybe they live in a neighbourhood where no one, or everyone services their car properly.

Whether or not my Skyline was serviced properly, the engine is still in better condition after 100 000km than my previous V8 Commodore's (at 80k km), which definitely was serviced properly.

I have not owned a car whose engine was in better condition than my Skyline's, that's all that counts. I could be fed any story as to whether or not the previous owners had treated it properly, but it wouldn't affect the condition of my engine today.

My car gets the full synthetic oil treatment every 5000km and hopefully that will be enough to see it through another 100k km or more.

Yeah just thought it would be something to consider when buying one. I read this in a jap import magazine. The reason they say is that keeping the service history up to scratch on a new car in Japan would make absolutely no difference to the value of the car when the time comes to sell or trade. Cos they wont get much back either way..

Well, if the car is blowing great plumes of smoke at the auction yard it wouldn't even sell, so that's a good incentive at least regular oil changes. Most of the rest of it can be done as a cure rather than a preventative operation - ie, coolant, plugs, brake fluid, etc. The engine oil is the important one, the rest can (generally) be skimped without affecting the car too badly.

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