Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On a stock fuel/ecu/turbo setup will an aftermarket fuel pump give a power increase? I was going to leave it stock but my mate said a Walbro or Bosch pump will give a little more power, plus my pump is getting old now.

Is this the case? Or is it pointless with a near-stock setup?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194477-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

More fuels is better that no fuel in that case i found that out. before i did a turbo upgrade I have a stock turbo and a bigger fuel pump and I got less horespw but I wasnt so lean i was richer then after my turbo I havent had a problem since I done few dyno runs and never has it beeen too lean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194477-fuel-pump/#findComment-3488341
Share on other sites

Omar not bosch its gay n noisy .. hks or walbro or nismo or tomei

n u might see an improvement but doubt it with ur mods. your going to see more improvement with a safc piggy back (just got mine installed and man its quick) Id chase one first and get dyno'd and see how lean you are. if you get bogging and that sort of crap when your upping the boost than yes a fuel pump is a NEEDED upgraded.

A general rule is upping boost, up the fuel. screw injectors for ur car atm

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194477-fuel-pump/#findComment-3488376
Share on other sites

Omar not bosch its gay n noisy .. hks or walbro or nismo or tomei

n u might see an improvement but doubt it with ur mods. your going to see more improvement with a safc piggy back (just got mine installed and man its quick) Id chase one first and get dyno'd and see how lean you are. if you get bogging and that sort of crap when your upping the boost than yes a fuel pump is a NEEDED upgraded.

A general rule is upping boost, up the fuel. screw injectors for ur car atm

I have a bosch one ur rite there noisey thinking bout it now should have gone a nismo alot easier to install less time and effort and more flow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194477-fuel-pump/#findComment-3488393
Share on other sites

Omar not bosch its gay n noisy .. hks or walbro or nismo or tomei

n u might see an improvement but doubt it with ur mods. your going to see more improvement with a safc piggy back (just got mine installed and man its quick) Id chase one first and get dyno'd and see how lean you are. if you get bogging and that sort of crap when your upping the boost than yes a fuel pump is a NEEDED upgraded.

A general rule is upping boost, up the fuel. screw injectors for ur car atm

Yeh was gonna come down Nat and check out the tune. So you reckon don't bother with a new pump (Nismo/Walbro sound good to me) until a piggyback job is done?

Sweet, an SAFC is on the cards then, after i repair my exhaust manifold hehe.

Looking forward to seeing how the 34 goes dude :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194477-fuel-pump/#findComment-3489209
Share on other sites

You will only "make" more power, if the current pump can not supply enough fuel... which is a fairly major issue in itself.

Fuel pumps are good insurance as stocker gts-t pumps really aren't that crash hot in anything than a factory application

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194477-fuel-pump/#findComment-3489254
Share on other sites

I went and got a dyno purely to see what power my car was making and the operator told me it was running lean.. so I'm glad I went and found that out!

Graph below was with 3" catback/intercooler... I've since replaced the fuel pump with a Tomei one. Getting a safc in soon and a tune!

The AFR isnt super lean I guess, but I'm sure it would only get worse!

hyperdrive_dyno0001.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194477-fuel-pump/#findComment-3490272
Share on other sites

Fuel pumps are good insurance as stocker gts-t pumps really aren't that crash hot in anything than a factory application

Point taken

Safc is poo i heard?

pfc ftw :rofl:

yeah fuel pump + reg works the magic in your fuelling system, id say is a must if you think for "increasing" any power

:ph34r:

Ok ok, safc would be the budget choice :wave:

reg f**ks fuel flow, stock factory flow that is.

Pointless unless maxing out injectors.

You'll eventually need a pump Omar its just a matter of time, hell if it fails Phil has one anyway lol

Yes, ur right i'll bite the pump...errr bullet...or whatever.

Phil has a stockie or aftermarket?

What pump did you get? And what about getting a regulator?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194477-fuel-pump/#findComment-3490411
Share on other sites

I went and got a dyno purely to see what power my car was making and the operator told me it was running lean.. so I'm glad I went and found that out!

Graph below was with 3" catback/intercooler... I've since replaced the fuel pump with a Tomei one. Getting a safc in soon and a tune!

The AFR isnt super lean I guess, but I'm sure it would only get worse!

hyperdrive_dyno0001.jpg

your afr's should of been sitting around 12 or under. afr's hitting around the 14:1 under full throttle is asking for a new motor.

In other words, your car was running dangerously lean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194477-fuel-pump/#findComment-3490509
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...