Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I searched the tut section, but couldnt find it.. unless i suck at searching!! hahah

So anyone got any steps and perhaps pics?

Is it simple process?

how long would it take?

I have got all the necessary sensors etc..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194551-how-to-install-an-oil-temp-guage/
Share on other sites

I'd say the sump is a little less accurate, but easy to do. I only use the guage to see changes in heat as opposed to exact temperatures. I'm very used to where it normally sits under different tyres of driving and it reacts very quickly to changes :dry:

Ahh i see.. well i might just install it at the normal spot..

But anyone know where i can get a jap brand sandwhich plate from?

the ones from justjap dont fit properly for jap brand guages..

Silly question...

If you have an oil cooler...where would be the best place you put the sensor?

Edit - Sidd - what type of guage did you get? and where are you mounting the guage in the car?

sidd, how do you know you need a special sandwich plate. you can get a greddy one for $150 i know. but japan use metric like us so i dont see how it would be any different.

weevil, if you have an oil cooler kit with a filterrelocator then one of your devices where the hoses attache will have sensor holes in there. i know this is the case with the greddy/trust ones and also the just jap ones...i just bought a jjr one! :w00t:

Well a few friends of mine have used those cheapy plates on there jap brand guages and they either dont fit (the sensor thingy) or they leak.

So im taking there word for it.

Anyways so i found myself a greedy sandwich plate and the sensor probe fits perfectly :)

evil- going to put the guage in my twin A-pillar pod.

This is the guage i bought:

Gekko20night.jpg

Bought my boost guage ages ago (about 1.5 years ago) and now the oil temp guage :)

Edited by siddr20

the sensor for my gauges were 1/8 NPT thread.

so i went to pirtek, for a few bucks you can get a t peice brass fitting, sensor in one side, oil line back in the other

nice gauges. mine have colour and sound warning, and adjustable warning settings

tory029fr6.jpg

gauges018gv9.jpg

gauges022vo0.jpg

gauges029mu1.jpg

gauges042zr7.jpg

smoke face, blue or white led (changes with the wiring you set up, mine are white when headlights are off and blue when lights on.)

this is how they look with a decent camera, obviously in a xr6 turbo and not in my car though

tripodhrrj6.jpg

Edited by Granthem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...