Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nizmo twin plate clutch with lightened fly-wheel. Rated at 500hp was in R32 GTR but began to slip after engine upgrade and power over 380rwkw. Needs new plates as they are fairly worn.

Complete with fly-wheel: $900.00

Pic as is below.

Nizmo2plait.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19456-nizmo-twin-plate-clutch/
Share on other sites

Two Nismo clutch plates would cost about $1100 + shipping from Japan...

Judging from that clutch plate, (I assume there are two, and a centre plate as well) it's a NISMO Spec I clutch... Rated to 900kgf

Sorry, I was quoting prices for replacement NISMO clutch plates from my NISMO Parts Catalog...

You're right, Exedy does manufacture the clutches for NISMO, and you could probably find a suitable clutch plate from the Exedy range.

bbenny, i have spent the last week and a half searching for a cheap set of NISMO GMAX plates for my twin plate clutch. Mine also has exactly the same problem as yours and i am trying to source a set of plates...

The cheapest i have found for my clutch was $550 per plate and that was for the cheaper Exedy/Daikin set...

If you truly can find a set for cheaper then please forward me there details as i am very interested!!! I am in such need that i have actually posted some threads in search of some plates...

If you cant give me details of where to get these plates for $600 then i guess you assumed their price just to sell your clutch quickly!

Tom

I got my Nismo twin plate rebuilt here using Xedy plates cost me $1600 and I still believe it hasn't got the right plates in.

addit Is the 32GTR a pull type clutch......if so more exxy

I think it is crucial to get the correct plates as you have highlighted 51Jay!!

My quote of $1300 is a fiar one i feel, but im totally pissed off about it!! I thought that it would be more like $800.....

Clutch plates for any twin plate clutch will cost atleast $400 each for any decent type of plate, no matter WHO you speak to. If someone can guarantee that theyll do it for less, they are lying or dont know what they are talking about!

Tom

Ok i dont understand why you are trying to accuse me of anything BNR32. Im sorry if i have upset you by giving a different quote to you. im not trying to make any enemies here so please dont accuse me of anything. if you have a problem please PM me no need to disrespect anyone.

well the quote i got was from Envy Imports who have rebuilt a few of these clutches and have one exactly the same for sale at about $1500. Their telephone number is (02) 99773533 i was told that a new set of plates would cost between $500 - $700 so i gave you the middle of that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...