Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 6 months later...

Wouldnt it be easier to just buy a 4WD Ceffy to begin with?

NA31 and LNA31 are the chassis codes you're after, the latter being the facelift version.

That's what I've just done. When it arrives in January I can take pictures of the suspension towers and stuff if that'd help. Right now this is the best picture I have.

AWD ceffies were after the 15 year rule cutoff, so the only ones that got into the country (australia) were the ones that came in under RAWS way back in the day. So you'd be able to count them on your hand.

They have a different chassis to th RWD cef's (same as the GTS4 and GTSt chassis being different even though the panels are the same). Front bits of a GTS4 are interchangeable with the NA31 ceffy.

Out of interest, what are the import laws in Australia? Here in the UK you can bring pretty much anything over if it's over 10 years old, it just has to pass the basic annual inspection (MOT Test) before you can register it.

Under 10 years it's more complicated an expensive, has to go through an ESVA test, which requires a model report creating, costs 5grand. There's companies that have done this and will let you rent theirs, but only for popular cars like GTRs, Imprezas, Bongos and Figaros and the like.

the reason we have such great import laws is because Japanese imports were damaging the aussie car market sales so Johny introduced more tighter laws which also added to the price of importing. :(

the main area's that need work on a rwd ceffy is that trans tunnel, the front struts and front chassis, as you need to panel beat the the trans tunnel, as well as needing modified box cross member , modify the front chassis rails for the front half shafts( and maybe for the gts4 eng cross member too?), and modify the front struts to bolt on the front suspension assembly.

the rear can be left alone if rear diff ratio's aint a worry, unsure if a custom/ modified tail shaft is needed or if it will bolt up to a ceffy diff.

Edited by Dan_J
the reason we have such great import laws is because Japanese imports were damaging the aussie car market sales so Johny introduced more tighter laws which also added to the price of importing. :)

the main area's that need work on a rwd ceffy is that trans tunnel, the front struts and front chassis, as you need to panel beat the the trans tunnel, as well as needing modified box cross member , modify the front chassis rails for the front half shafts( and maybe for the gts4 eng cross member too?), and modify the front struts to bolt on the front suspension assembly.

the rear can be left alone if rear diff ratio's aint a worry, unsure if a custom/ modified tail shaft is needed or if it will bolt up to a ceffy diff.

I think it would be easier to bring in an SE-4 cefiro and rebirth it :O

lol true... modifying a A31 to an NA31 chassis is kinda retarded. There's a few legal ways to import one, and a few not so legal... if you really wanted to.

But no one does. Which is why there's so very few. So much effort when you can spend the same amount of money and time and buy two fully functional and legal R32 GTRs. Australian Import laws are awesome when you look at it that way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...