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Im pretty keen on getting exhaust system done these holidays

and i got a quote from an exhaust place in nunnawading

this is it:

Mildsteel ( i only plan to hold onto the car for about 3 more years )

2.5 inch piping

Mandrel bent

hi flow cat

oval muffler resonator

cannon muffler

all this for $700 (including labour&parts)

+ futher $120 to fit extractors with system

so roughly $820 to get my setup done

is this good or is there any cheaper places????

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194634-hows-this-for-the-price/
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wow. thats a bit pricey for only 2.5" and mild steel. if u check just jap and etc, u can get a full system for about $800-$900, which is abouts what your paying now.

http://www.justjap.com/parts_nexhaust.htm

yeah ive checked a few sites and other jap systems but couldnt find a nice one for around 700-800 with 2.5 inch piping only 3inch+....and the price i was quoted was 700 just for the exhaust....but i'll try and get a few more quotes.

p.s...guy told me this will only give me about +4kw..what the hell i thought atleast 10-15kw? ohwel.

A proper zorst wont give you much more peak KW.. but will increase power and rorque throughout all RPM ranges..

If you want a higher peak power.. and your torque and power throughout most rpm will suffer from this.. get a 3".. but your looseing all round more torque and power..

2.5" is the goods Id say..

I dont think a hi flow if a must.. on such low power applications its gonna do didly squat

And Stainless is better..

But thats my 2c..

stainless is only better cause it wont rust away in 10yrs, but i honestly think mild steel gives a better sound. It absorbs the resonance better and give a slightly deeper tone, which you want since yours is na. Theres nothing worse than a barking high pitched na exhaust

i wouldnt expect a huge jump in power, but like gts4wd said there should be a noticeable difference across the rev range. If you opted for the extractors as well as a full exhaust then i would expect more than 4kw gain

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Trust 3" Stainless Steel Cat Back Exhaust (a $900 exhaust) = 16.9 kW increase on my R34 GT :rolleyes:

Thats because your engine is VVL (Nissan's Variable Valve Lift and Timing) .. Different Cam system

VVL varies the timing, duration, and lift of valves by using hydraulic pressure switch between two different sets of camshaft lobes.

I really REALLY **REALLY** wanted an SR20VE bottom end and SR16VE in my pulsar..

Either that or the Jap spec X-trail came with an SR22VET.. but then I decided i valued my life..

=]

Beau wont be getting the same out of his Rb25DE..

Edited by GTS4WD
Trust 3" Stainless Steel Cat Back Exhaust (a $900 exhaust) = 16.9 kW increase on my R34 GT :/

just a reminder to others that the above stated power gain would be measured at max power at high rpm and does not represent the area under the curve (which i and many others believe is far more important in NA applications) :rolleyes:

also note that the Neo RB25 has VVL on both the intake and exhaust, so you wont get those gains on an RB25

true that! when i was waiting at maroochy exhaust centre, a guy with a civic wanted a 3" on there.

and the bloke said "its not worth it mate, u go that big and u will lose all your torque"

probably more expensive, because 2.5" isnt as common as 3", and is a n.a engine

"its not worth it mate, u go that big and u will lose all your torque"

exactly...

power figures are a reasonable standard for assessing the performance of an engine, but in no way does it describe the driveability of it.

you are obviously exhausting/expelling more gases at a higher rpm and thus a larger exhaust would be beneficial to accomodate all that gas. however at low-mid rpm (where most people drive) all a larger exhaust will do is take longer to fill up with the gases to reach it's efficiency. it's a similar concept to "lag", a term often heard with people who mount large turbos to their motors.

2.25-2.50" is the ideal compromise for a non turbo RB street car. if you're a dyno queen or have a high/large power band and regularly see high rpm due to racing then by all means go larger.

i do track work and often see 5-7000rpm and run a 2.50" exhaust.

then you better have lost 3rd and 4th whilst racing

i'll accept no less

Well truth be told..

I had a drag race, ran too much nos and my passenger footwell welds broke and flew open..

This was before the laoptop flashed "DANGER"..

Do you think I should get a 3" exhaust?

just a reminder to others that the above stated power gain would be measured at max power at high rpm and does not represent the area under the curve (which i and many others believe is far more important in NA applications) :D

also note that the Neo RB25 has VVL on both the intake and exhaust, so you wont get those gains on an RB25

sorry guys i keep forgetting i have the neo version engine og the RB25DE. my apologises.

Eug would you like me to scan in a few of my dyno graphs so u can have a look at em???

by all means cara, i'm a firm believer that dyno runs are merely a quick and reasonable way to assess the potential of a car. the graph should definitely give some sort of indication as to whether or not your exhaust did give some benefit (a before and after would be ideal).

by no means do i personally think it's a fair standard to use as many dyno ramp rates, settings, etc. vary, and even some dynos vary on the same day! i've had a dyno read my power output at 65rwkW and 10 minutes later 97rwkW and another 30 minutes later at 101rwkW.

i don't even think that the dyno is THAT good for tuning, it's certainly effective for that though. i've always liked the concept of a road tune, as i believe cars are subjected to different loads and ambient conditions than under 'ideal' dyno conditions.

i've just re-read the tone of my post, and hope it didn't come off as condescending or anything like that. i was merely pointing out to beau (the thread starter) not to expect the gains you achieved if he ever did get a 3" exhaust - he would be one unhappy dude wouldn't you think?

but it is like getting extractors.............some will get a power gain and others will not............in my case , the car gained responsiveness but no actual power gain (despite leaving it for a month and putting it on the dyno).

it depends on the car in the end

when i was ringing around about clutches and flywheels, i was told that some cars do not handle lightened flywheels very well (i think he said BA falcons), while others, like the skylines handle the flywheels very well.

i know ive probably just gone a little off topic! sorries!!

i'm not 100% sure what you're trying to get at. extractors vary rarely do gain power, it's more of a torque/response thing as you create more efficiency in how the gases flow - you might see a slight power increase as it helps 'top end' a bit. you keep forgetting that power is measured at a specific rpm.

for arguments sake; 300kW @ 9000rpm is useless for a street car, 200kW @ 3000rpm is different again. whilst the first one has more power, the 2nd one would easily be faster.

skylines handle flywheels well, because they are a revvy motor by nature. they like to rev and the lightened flywheel enhances that. when comparing to a 4L V6 or a 5.XL V8 BA falcon they have the cubic capacity to generate the torque required to rotate all that mass. they are grunty like a tractor and wouldn't really need a flywheel unless they were high revving.

post-9983-1195690491_thumb.jpg

take this dummy dyno graph for example... while one makes more peak power, it doesn't actually make that power until late in the rev range. the other makes less peak power, but makes more power on average than the other - and being in the rev range where people use it most, it's more effective in going fast.

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