Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys can anyone advise as to whether a standard PFC is sufficient for 300rwkw with standard internals or djetro required.?

What power figures require the djetro..?

I'd rather not get the djetro if not required as I've been told that it costs alot more to tune etc.

Its for a 32gtr.

Cheers,

Edited by PX29
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194923-standard-pfc-or-djetro/
Share on other sites

For most setups both tune the same and one takes no longer than the other, the std PFC is good for whatever AFm you choose to use. i tend to use the d-jetro for radically cammed engines as it actually tunes up quicker... generally speaking the std PFC will offer better fuel economy.

For most setups both tune the same and one takes no longer than the other, the std PFC is good for whatever AFm you choose to use. i tend to use the d-jetro for radically cammed engines as it actually tunes up quicker... generally speaking the std PFC will offer better fuel economy.

Thanks alot for the info about tuning(I thought standard comes with a base tune, where djetro had to be tuned from scratch.?).

So it really then depends whether I can achieve 300rwkw with standard AFM's......is this possible....or do I need Z32's...??

Edited by PX29

well the Ljetro gets better economy as it runs MAFs instead of the twin map sensors on the Djetro version. they both come with base maps to start from. MAF sensors effectively measure air density/flow where as map sensors just measure pressure so under lots of condition the MAF sensor gives a finer reading.

they both cost the same to tune, but the big difference is the Djetro costs a lot more to install as you need to remove the plenum to fit the pressure feeds for the map sensors (unless you want to risk dropping swarf into the engine). the Ljetro of course is just plug in. BUT I would suggest that 300rwkw updraged MAF sensors is a good idea. either VG30s or Nismos etc. standard 26 Mafs will hit 5.115v at about 260rwkw. you can still tune a car with them to about 300rwkw or even more if you want, but it's much nicer to have a sensor that is still giving usable readings right to peak power/air flow.

well the Ljetro gets better economy as it runs MAFs instead of the twin map sensors on the Djetro version. they both come with base maps to start from. MAF sensors effectively measure air density/flow where as map sensors just measure pressure so under lots of condition the MAF sensor gives a finer reading.

they both cost the same to tune, but the big difference is the Djetro costs a lot more to install as you need to remove the plenum to fit the pressure feeds for the map sensors (unless you want to risk dropping swarf into the engine). the Ljetro of course is just plug in. BUT I would suggest that 300rwkw updraged MAF sensors is a good idea. either VG30s or Nismos etc. standard 26 Mafs will hit 5.115v at about 260rwkw. you can still tune a car with them to about 300rwkw or even more if you want, but it's much nicer to have a sensor that is still giving usable readings right to peak power/air flow.

Thanks for the response, very informative.

Bit confused with this Ljetro..?.....is this another name for the standard PFC...?,..cant seem to find it on the Nengun or Greenline webpages.

What would be the go then..... Standard, Djetro, Ljetro...?? Dont want to spend more than I need too..

Trying to determine which one is best suited for me.

Cheers,

Edited by PX29
Thanks Beer Baron

Ljetro is just the normal PFC

Cool.

Been reading from the link below and there seems to be no real advantage going with the Djetro.

http://paulr33.sauvic.com.au/docs/powerfc-...erfc-faq.htm#61

Standard/Ljetro PCF seems to be the go-er at this stage. Anyone else want to enlighten me with their experiences or recommendations. I want to order a unit soon so I can start the 5-6week wait.

Cheers,

paulr33 suffers from MAPphobia :D

But in all seriousness, talk your tuner and discuss what he is most comfortable with.

I have seen Djetro installs on standard GT-Rs make power gains over the standard MAF version PFC without losing drivability.

Ive seen MAF make better power on GTRs with stock throttlebodys and found power with Djetros by finding ways of stopping the MAP pulse that they(And all other MAP ECUs)have,Mickos ex GTR is way down on power with its Djetro than it was with MAF PFC (400hp MAF 380hp Djetro) I spend much time Datalogging MAP signals and find good gains when we get a smooth input. 300KW is easy for MAF so you wont have to upgrade.

Sorry to hijack, but im looking at going d-jetro as well, and for me to sell the L and get a D is cheaper than buying AFMS for the L.

Ill need a new tune with the new engine package, and im going to make custom intake piping anyway whether if be for 80afm or no afm....

Whats best? Engine will be -5 equipped.

I run the D-jetro on my RB26 - I find I have no dramas at all, runs well, was easy to tune, comes with a base map etc. Common misconception is that you have to remove the inlet manifold. I can confirm this is NOT the case - I have my MAP sensors connected via a T piece to a vacuum feed on the inlet manifold and it runs fine. Talking with the guys at Willal racing, this is exactly what they do and haven't found any differences over running it this way vs drill and tapping fittings into the runners.

Benefits on the d jetro - removing the AFM removes inlet restrictions, also there is obviously no need to upgrade your AFM's once you max them out so that saves you quite a conserable amount of $$.

Economy - I am still obtaining 400 - 430 kms per tank around town running 340 rwkws and have seen 500+ open road. I don't exactly drive it all that economically either - (what point is horsepower if you don't use it?)

I just figured that $$L Jetro + 2xAFMs + tune > Djetro + tune + sell AFMs (its a big difference, trust me)

If you have any questions let me know - happy to answer them.

Edited by Blue32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...