Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes i have to agree with you about that

but rotary engines always have a short life span when ported,dowelled etc compared to the rb26 engine with forged pistons and so on.....so when it all adds up having a rotary does cost alot to maintain

Stock to Stock,,,I'd have the GTR (thats only if you are talking about GTR's) Much more reliable,,,,TT Mazda's love eating exhaust manifolds and turbos. Rotary's actually don't have a short life span,,,it's all up to the clown behind the wheel.

Please don't use Bathurst as a comparison,,,Mazda's entry was a full factory effort,,,Nissan's was a private deal. Horsley built a missile being the SP,,,full carbon air intake and a shit-load more.

I'd sell my GTS-T tomorrow for a nice clean RX7SP,,but I'd have to chuck at least 3 grand at it,,,just to make as reliable as a GTR.

Neil.

Hmmm....

I would say the Rx7 is in between the standards of the GTR and GTS-T.

QTR mile- STOCK for STOCK

R33 GTR wins.

I've got a Japanese video with stock Rx7 (either series 6 or 7)and stock R33 GTR doing the quarter mile with proffesional drivers and the GTR whooped its ass.... GTR= 13.030

Rx7= 13.726

Now take into account that an inexperienced driver would launch an rx7 and spin on the spot for about a second or two and that would put the poor bugger even further behind.

As for track. I guess it depends on which track it is. Im guessing the Rx7 *might* win on a very technical course cause its a smaller car.

One of my mates with a stock rotor says they are reliable but another one who used to have a modded rotor disagreed. He thought once you started to work on them things would slowly deteriorate, crack and blow etc.

I reckon both cars are sexy but it comes down to personal taste.

If your asking this because you wanna know what car to buy....GO THE GTR!!!

Originally posted by CroatianR33

One of my mates with a stock rotor says they are reliable but another one who used to have a modded rotor disagreed. He thought once you started to work on them things would slowly deteriorate, crack and blow etc.

Yes, it's the bridgeporting that makes them unreliable. Stick to the stock ports and add a turbo and it'll be as reliable or moreso than a normal engine.

I'm not going to reiterate everything I said in the performance forums thread (go take a look if you're interested), but will respond to a couple of comments here.

(disclaimer: I own a s6 and a r33 - and love them both. I don't have a GTR (and don't need one with the s6) but they are still one of my favourite machines)

* first of all, I keep my skyline because it has a usable back seat and four doors (yes, 4)

* re: GTR vs s6 over 400m. I have plenty of japanese videos too (lots!) and own the best motoring vid where they compare the 95 rx7 vs the GTR. A v-spec beats the rx7 (and, in turn, gets its arse handed to it by a top spec nsx). The rx7 beats the GTO and Supra, among others. The s6 is only beaten by the nsx around the tsukuba circuit (universal testing track in japan). There is a large margin behind these two. I would also like to remind people that the r32 GTR (which is what we should be comparing an early s6 too) also got smashed by the r33 v-spec in a best motoring review. Stock for stock, the JDM s6 is (at least) a match for the 32.

* A s8 rx7 is a serious machine.

* My rx7 weighs 1260kg

* JGTC is not a good comparo (it's like comparing your garden variety commodore to a touring car). For a more realistic (but still very highly modded) comparison - the tsukuba time trials.

current standings:

1. (S) JUN HYPER LEMON Evo 5: 55h976s

2. (S) M Speed Skyline BNR34: 56"372s

3. (S) ATTKD BNR32: 56"751s

4. (S) HKS Evo 7: 56"814s

5. (A) RE Amemiya FD3S: 56"863s

Originally posted by Ryosuke Takahashi

yes i have to agree with you about that  

but rotary engines always have a short life span when ported,dowelled etc compared to the rb26 engine with forged pistons and so on.....so when it all adds up having a rotary does cost alot to maintain

If you work any engine you dramatically shorten it's life to next rebuild.

you are seriously mistaken about your information.

I could afford to run high performance chookers for many years on a students income.

I'm sure those of us with real rotory experience will all disagree with you.

yes i admit i have no experience at all with rotaries but i know a few people who own rotors some which have some work on them

i heard for a rotor when you blow one seal eg oil seal or something i dunno the whole engine is gonna go

i am also a gtr fan btw so don't think i have something against skylines because i just can't afford one atm

I've owned both an R32 GTR and a series 6 rx7 at the same time a few months ago.

I've owned my Rx7 for a number of years. I thought I would change to the very talked about GTR.

It was hard to compair the GTR's engine performance to my Rx7 due the Rx7 being fully decked out with a T4 turbo setup but I made many enquiries to build up the GTR's motor and get after market twin turbo setup. After my research I saw I would be out of pocket a minimum of $35,000 for a mild to high horsepower setup. 2 months later I sold the GTR.

They can keep their 4WD system!

If anyone is interested how much the Rx7 setup cost. It was round $20,000 which included everything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...