Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This car will also maul your stock turbo gtst on a circuit. At a 50hp shot you have 200+ seconds of full throttle power in a single 10lb bottle, thats quite a number of laps around most tracks in Australia. For a fairly stock street car that is as much as anyone really gets in a public session. The motor has a massive torque advantage for the same power. But, it's a moot point if the regulations of the track prohibit nitrous use.
Gotta come back to this.

Cara has found, she gets 5 dyno runs, and a few purges, and she's out.

But you claim 200seconds she should be getting, so lets say she got 8 dyno runs without purging, 25 seconds on the dyno seems aVERY long time, especially seeing how she was activating it at basically the halfway point of the RPM, so 40-50odd seconds for a dyno run...

One of you isn't adding up.

Adding to the full throttle power, that's the problem, Cara may make 170RWKW, but it's only capable of making it at flat stick, back off a bit, nitrous cuts out, she drops "50hp"

Back off in a Turbo R33, and you might drop 5-10KW.

The turbo is just WAY more useable on the circuit in its power delivery.

The turbo would be way more driveable, with no massive "kick" as you go from from nearly full throttle, to full throttle, a turbo can feed the power on alot nicer then what will occur. So basically, Cara can only pick up full throttle on the track once in a straight line, or fear spinning off with a sudden 50HP jump in power.

The whole problem with you basis of Cara's car being able to "maul" a stock R33 on a circuit (And we'll see what times she manages at the drags before commenting further) is that she has good linear power change, between part throttle, and full throttle.

Most race tracks are driven at part throttle, with full throttle really only being used on straight aways, which on most Aust tracks is just the main straight (Yes, small straights between corners, but even those you have to balance on the throttle alot)

Cara, also, so far, how much has the Nitrous kit cost you (Rough price), and how much does it cost each time you need to refill?

  • Replies 153
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

okies lets clear up a few things here!!!!

when the nos was first used on the dyno (on the friday before extreme horsepower) the bottle was probably about 1/2 full and had been sitting around for a year, so i got 153kW i think it was.

then on the saturday of extreme horsepower, that morning i went and got the bottle filled, cost me $114 cos there was still some nos in the bottle left over, however i was told that the ratio of nos to air, was more air than nos, hence giving me a low kW reading on friday.

to fill the 10 pound bottle is $120. not too expensive, i think it is about $11.50 per pound or something like that.

on the cost of the kit itself, well ill keep that to myself!

but normally in total (including install) should cost near on $2500

okies lets clear up a few things here!!!!

when the nos was first used on the dyno (on the friday before extreme horsepower) the bottle was probably about 1/2 full and had been sitting around for a year, so i got 153kW i think it was.

then on the saturday of extreme horsepower, that morning i went and got the bottle filled, cost me $114 cos there was still some nos in the bottle left over, however i was told that the ratio of nos to air, was more air than nos, hence giving me a low kW reading on friday.

to fill the 10 pound bottle is $120. not too expensive, i think it is about $11.50 per pound or something like that.

on the cost of the kit itself, well ill keep that to myself!

but normally in total (including install) should cost near on $2500

Thanks for the response Cara.

So, one last question, how long does a bottle last you of just doing runs (No purging)?

Have you tested this yet?

The other thing is, I'm struggling with the concept of having an issue of a bottle sitting around for a year.

Nitrous Oxide is rather stable, and it takes extreme heat and pressure to break down, so, there shouldn't be an issue, in a completely sealed gas bottle, sitting around for a year.

If it were not filled correctly, then I could understand.

Edit: Isn't the bottle ONLY filled with Nitrous Oxide as well, otherwise different mixtures from different places (Air to nitrous oxide) could cause you grief with mixtures changing etc.

Edited by MBS206

i didnt have the bottle sitting around for a year, a friend did, i got the from them lol (now you know!)

so what conditions the bottle was in before i got it, i dont know.

I havent tested how many runs i get without purging as of yet. I will do that later down the track tho, when i get the 75 hp jets put in.

not sure how the air got in the bottle itself, but like i said i dont know what conditions the bottle was in before i got it. But the guys that re filled it for me just told me there was more air then NOS when they went to re-fill it for me.

i didnt have the bottle sitting around for a year, a friend did, i got the from them lol (now you know!)

so what conditions the bottle was in before i got it, i dont know.

I havent tested how many runs i get without purging as of yet. I will do that later down the track tho, when i get the 75 hp jets put in.

not sure how the air got in the bottle itself, but like i said i dont know what conditions the bottle was in before i got it. But the guys that re filled it for me just told me there was more air then NOS when they went to re-fill it for me.

Sorry, I wasn't trying to find out where you got it from, LOL, I was more thinking allowed, trying to get a bit of discussion happening on it, I understand at a fairly good level how nitrous oxide works, but, I don't know the very fine details (like, how it's filled etc, air:n2o ratio etc)

I'll have to do some research on it.

One, slightly off topic question, but what is your fuel economy like in L/100KM?

Gotta come back to this.

Cara has found, she gets 5 dyno runs, and a few purges, and she's out.

But you claim 200seconds she should be getting, so lets say she got 8 dyno runs without purging, 25 seconds on the dyno seems aVERY long time, especially seeing how she was activating it at basically the halfway point of the RPM, so 40-50odd seconds for a dyno run...

One of you isn't adding up.

Adding to the full throttle power, that's the problem, Cara may make 170RWKW, but it's only capable of making it at flat stick, back off a bit, nitrous cuts out, she drops "50hp"

Back off in a Turbo R33, and you might drop 5-10KW.

The turbo is just WAY more useable on the circuit in its power delivery.

The turbo would be way more driveable, with no massive "kick" as you go from from nearly full throttle, to full throttle, a turbo can feed the power on alot nicer then what will occur. So basically, Cara can only pick up full throttle on the track once in a straight line, or fear spinning off with a sudden 50HP jump in power.

The whole problem with you basis of Cara's car being able to "maul" a stock R33 on a circuit (And we'll see what times she manages at the drags before commenting further) is that she has good linear power change, between part throttle, and full throttle.

Most race tracks are driven at part throttle, with full throttle really only being used on straight aways, which on most Aust tracks is just the main straight (Yes, small straights between corners, but even those you have to balance on the throttle alot)

Cara, also, so far, how much has the Nitrous kit cost you (Rough price), and how much does it cost each time you need to refill?

I think you missed my humour....

170rwkw stockish skyline is a pretty nerdy circuit racer anyway you look at it, it's like comparing samples of poo for excitement value (massive appologies for any offence taken by owners of such cars) :D

* Question of Nitrous longevity;

100hp worth of gas in a 10lb bottle gives you about 100 seconds (50hp gives you around 200), it's not rocket science. In fact you can see this very question under FAQ I am sure for most manufacturers of nitrous kits, there are other questions you may find interesting answers to as well. Purging wastes a some gas of course but not a huge amount. I have had quite a few kits in my time and I am always suprised at how long a bottle lasts.

* Questions of racing circuit or drag;

As I mentioned the use of nitrous on tracks is not sanctioned (I didn't think people would take me seriously), as I mentioned its a moot point. However one can easily set up a kit to make it circuit friendly if it were allowed. Hidden 'Cheater' systems have been used controversially in circuit racing in the bad old days, particularly in the US. The massive torque nitrous provides means the motors spread of power gives you a large advantage.Again, I mentioned the circuit advantage only as tongue in cheek.

As for the strip, welcome to having your ass handed to you if you have the same power as a turbo setup, average power is king. Have a good hard look at why nitrous is popular in drag racing and you will see my point.

* Cost;

$100-ish for a 10lb fill lasts 100 seconds @ 100hp shot, it's by far the cheapest way to enjoy occasional street/strip fun. The setup requires very little at all by comparison to a turbo upgrade in terms of cost and suffers from no day to day normal driving compromises.

In short nitrous offers the best bang for buck street/strip upgrade, regadless of the consumable aspect.

Cara has a different approach and has mentioned the strip and show as her chosen areas of recreation, she really can't go wrong :D

Hope that adds to the discussion :(

hehehe nah wasnt being sarcastic lol

was talkin to a mate and he has a r33 auto (has been modified) and was saying how he got his gear ratios changed

so if u can change the ratios for a auto, could u get them changed on a manual as well???

auto is normally preferred for drag applications.

what did he actually modify, the gear box ratios? or the diff ratios?

both are worthwhile drivetrain mods if you don't mind sacrificing in other areas. for example, if you swap to a shorter ratio you will accelerate faster but at a sacrifice for lower top speed.

useful for drag racing as you only travel 400m. for a street car it can be a pain if you wish to go on the highway, etc.

hardcore track cars normally have specialized ratios suitable for a particular circuit.

can be done for both manual and auto gearboxes. final drive ratio can also be changed, auto skylines have a shorter differential ratio to manuals, a simple mod for manuals is to throw in auto gears.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...