Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nismoid, what do you think of the centre muffler idea as opposed to your two new rear mufflers?

I have two, not both at the rear though.

One before the diff, one after it.

Whilst one middle muffler will make your set-up quieter for sure, its dependant on what you deem acceptable as to whether or not 'its enough'

Even putting in a middle muffler, it will still reverb/echo or whatever the term is and still be reasonable 'loud' as i would call it.

As lately we've been playing around with a few 'things' and the best gains are making things as quiet as possible at or near the rear muffler

my system is simple.. twin 3inch dumps into single 4inch before cat.. 5inch body 4inch in and out metal cat and i only run one jun bl 3.5inch(couldnt find a nice 4inch muffler on the market at the time)mufflers at the back.. is a very quiet system ive found each car ive put a metal cat on its turned out to be extremely quiet

so yer.. as others asked are you running cats if so wat are they?

Edited by rb26s13

that looks like williamsF1`s car (ben I think his name was?).

nice exhaust. not sure how good those mufflers are, but really the only way to quieten it is more muffler. thin wall stainless exhausts are also generally louder than an equivelant thicker wall mild steel system. but obviously one looks nice, the other doesn`t.

I've had a muffler added where the crossover existed previously. (twin 2 1/2in and twin 2 1/2 out. ) It's still a bit too noisy so I guess the next step is to change the rear mufflers.

I can't be 100% sure but I think the muffler in place of the split has improved performance, especially higer in the rev range. Is it possible that the split was restrictive?

Yes, it is WilliamsF1 car, now in Perth.

Edited by futurewa

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...