Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

As the topic states I was wondering if anyone had inside knowledge of how to clean and engine bay and make it look clean? I can never get mine to look as good. but all i really use is degreaser at most.

Also whats the stuff used to make the black plastic have a shiny almost wet look? armourall?

Any help would be great. thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195778-engine-bay-cleaning/
Share on other sites

I used degreaser, washed that off @ carwash, then wnet over all rubber with silicone.

After i gave the bay a wash though my boost guage was reading 1bar @idle and boosting all over the place. Car was fine, but the gauge was all over the place. Sorted itself out in a day or so though. Weird.

Armorall is not good don't go near the stuff. People will defend it and say it makes their dashboard look good. The problem is once you start applying it you cant stop or it dries out and makes whatever you put it on age faster and look awful. No pro detailers use Armorall for this and other reasons.

As for cleaning the engine bay. Degreaser is good for overall clean to start with but it doesn't get much real dirty stuff clean.

I use a few things for really dirty engine bay areas:

1) Simple Green concentrate. I don't know what's in it but spray it on concentrated for tough dirt or dilute it and spray it everywhere. Leave it go a few minutes max and rinse it off. I think you should be able to get it at supermarkets but I had to get it from Bunnings. The green bottle is the one to get.

2) Meguires non-acid wheel cleaner. This gets next to everything off everything. I again don't know what's in it but it cleans very well and I suppose it's non-acid so hopefully is ok to use on most things. Don't just spray it everywhere though it's more of a spot product.

3) Other more aggressive wheel cleaning products. I would never just spray this stuff on the engine bay in general but in very limited spots this might work better than mequires.

4) To clean any zinc coated metal item like bolts, brackets etc I use WD40 and a soft rag. Spray lots of WD40 (make sure you don't overspray on other items - use a rag behind whatever you're spraying) and wipe it all off.

I clean of any residue from any of these cleaners with some non-residue aerosol cleaner like CO contact cleaner but only if I can't get it off with a rag very easily since CO contact cleaner is $20 a can.

Engine bay metals, plastics and well....................most things under the hood, i used big kevs biodegradable stainfree stain remover worked a treat and most importantly.................

Im excited!!!!!

poor joke i know but had to say/write it!!!

but seriously it really worked well guys give it a go!!

Ohh and for the dash (and this one works the best)..try a dash mat!!!

EMZ

Edited by EMZ R33

I think i might go try the meguires stuff. I was quite impressed with their wax, its just expensive thats all.

EMZ R33. Big kev is dead. sorry to say. lol

Now I just wanna get the plastics to have that wet/shiny look. hmm

Here's a bit of my input:

Polished Metal

California Custom Purple Metal Polish for all chrome or polished metals. It's made in the US and is a bit tricky to find over here in Australia. Anyone that has used it always says its the best metal polish they have ever used.

Exterior plastics/rubbers

Mothers Back To Black is very good however leaves a bit of a sticky film on the area and it attracts dirt very easily after a bit of a drive. Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber Care seems to be a bit better with not leaving such a sticky residue.

Paint

As for the paint in the engine bay (pretty much the same products you would use on the outside of the car). Obviously after getting rid of all the grease and dirt, Autoglym Super Resin Polish or if you have a dark coloured paint (ie. not white) Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine.

With me owning a white car and my old man having a black car I have used a lot of car care products, mainly due to the fact i get them cheap through work and these ones i have found to be the best in their particular area. Obviously there are hundreds of different products and if you are stuck on choice go either Autoglym, Mothers, Bowdens or Meguiars. All are great brands and easily available in most stores.

Edited by PM-R33
I think i might go try the meguires stuff. I was quite impressed with their wax, its just expensive thats all.

EMZ R33. Big kev is dead. sorry to say. lol

Now I just wanna get the plastics to have that wet/shiny look. hmm

Yeah i know dude, i spoke to him at the clipsal 500 the year that he died....................and yeah his products are still out and they still work a treat!!!

EMZ

I managed to buy a bottle of the Meguiars wheel spray on the weekend. that worked alright on getting dirt off the painted bits, but the blacks still look dull and on the tappet cover there is still caked on grease i just cannot get off.

Ill keep trying and ill update with what works

For stained areas in the engine bay, i have used that citrus based oven cleaner sprayed onto a wet rag and used ONLY as a spot cleaner. Works really well but you need to make sure you rinse it really well afterwards.

As for the black stuff. I have used this stuff to great effect both inside the car and out

Carplan_Black_Trim_Wax__5344039.jpg

Ive used both the black trim wax and the mothers back to black. It just doesnt last long enough and my window seals go that whiteish colour again. Forever black was heaps better, cant remember who makes it.

EDIT heres a link

http://www.autogeek.net/forblacbumtr.html

Edited by hazerb30
  • 2 weeks later...

bring back a old thread instead of reposting!!!

just a quick question.. my engine bay is full of dust cause we were renovating the back yard.

no i can smell dust coming into the car through the vents. im going to get compressor and blow out all the dust in the engine bay.

now after i do that i wanted to give it a quick rinse with the high pressure hose.. is it okay to just spray it in there or do i have to cover the coil packs etc.

thanks. >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...