Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, this is probably the billionth post like this...but i got this turbo, its only done a 1000km. I plan on bolting it to my rb25det in the meantime before the whole gt35r thing....

i need someone to tell me whats the deal with this turbo, good or bad, responsive or not...

all the info i have is its an rb25 rear housing with a machined wheel, a/r60 front cover t04???

part number on the core is 446179-5032 it says garrett.

here's a few pics.

thanks guys, appreciated..

also, if you guys did need wheel sizes etc...whats the deal? just get some verniers onto em?

post-23597-1196672463_thumb.jpg

post-23597-1196672492_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ryanrb25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196170-what-is-this-turbo/
Share on other sites

part number on the core is 446179-5032 it says garrett.
Seems to be the 56T GT2871R. Should be pretty responsive!

Yes, that CHRA number = 56T GT2871 cartridge. With the larger (compared to 48T version) inducer size on the compressor, it should provide a responsive 240kW (maybe a bit more) on an RB25. Compared to the 48T version, it won't offer quite the same transient response (ie very close to stock-feel) but pretty good.

Any idea why your mate pulled it off the RB20, and/or what it drove like with that turbo fitted?

hey mate

I've just had a look at this turbo on my Garrett Master spreadsheet, and it appears as Simon-R32 said - a 56 trim GT2871. I know that the 48trim version makes 220rwkw at 15psi, just send a PM to Dale_FZ1 as he has one and has done extensive testing. I will certainly point him at this thread, as he'll be very interested to see your results.

I've driven his car and it makes a full 15psi by 2800rpm on the RB25. Very responsive.

This would probably make full boost by 3,000rpm (a little later due to the more agressive 56trim) and yeah, I estimate would make about 240rwkw and *maybe* 250rwkw if you squeeze her a little more. Depends on the exhaust housing though, as they are restrictive as hell and the RB25 housing on my GT3076 only managed 240rwkw due to it being too small.

But this is definately a f**ken fantastic upgrade for a RB25.

Edited by The Mafia

ah great news guys, cheers for your input, i got the turbo real cheap, its only done a 1000km so its still fresh..the pictures are bad i know but that actual rear wheel is as large as you can fit in that housing by the looks of how much its machined out...

my mate removed it off his rb20 due to the rings on number one going, he's currently forgie rebuilding it and wackin on a gt3540 off xr6t, not sure the rear they run i think .82 or something....but yea thats a different sorry.

The turbo on the 20 was a little laggy (rb20 nature anyway) came on strong at about 3700.

im about a week or so away from eventually fitting the gear so will have results soon for you guys.

anyone know if this core needs different fittings for oil, coolant etc..or will the standard rb25 lines suit? or is it just a matter of buying lines to suit gt2871r cores?

cheers for the info guys, really helpful, keep ya posted with results

  • 3 weeks later...

guys, wacked on this turbo over the weekend, running 7psi through stock tune with Power FC and already am i amazed at the responce, pickup and kick of torque.....such a smooth torque band even without a tune and on 7psi....Putting injectors, z32, fuelpump in very soon, will keep you posted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...