Jump to content
SAU Community

  

68 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

looking at buying myself a skyline soonish....cant really decide what i want, 4 door or coupe :P

is there any difference between the coupe & 4 door besides the obvisous cosmetic differences?

i will be using it as a daily/drift hack....as i have another project on my hands atm

if you guys could recommend one to me & state why you would choose that one over the other one....hopefully this will help me make my decision

cheers

Andrew :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/
Share on other sites

There's nothing different apart from the obvious cosmetics. The suspension from a gtst coupe will go straight into a sedan. Engine are both the same. The sedan is an extra ~50mm longer.

I went for the sedan because I thought it was 'rare'.

It's your choice which one you should go for. Some people don't like the sedan's rear lights and it makes them want to go for the coupe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3514287
Share on other sites

It's your choice which one you should go for. Some people don't like the sedan's rear lights and it makes them want to go for the coupe.

umm i heard you can get coupe tail lights to fit into the 4 door, not sure if they fit straight in or u need a conversion kit....but this is possible yer??

also

is it possible to fit a tow bar on an r32 to tow a small trailer?? like a jet ski?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3514824
Share on other sites

umm i heard you can get coupe tail lights to fit into the 4 door, not sure if they fit straight in or u need a conversion kit....but this is possible yer??

also

is it possible to fit a tow bar on an r32 to tow a small trailer?? like a jet ski?

You can get the covers to make the sedan's tail lights look like the coupe's, but actually changing them to coupe ones is a LOT of work.

I don't see why you can't put a towbar on the car, it's just that the 2ltr is already struggling with the 1.5tonne car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3514879
Share on other sites

4 door looks crap in comparison to the 2 door in my opinion.

I've had both and prefer the look of the 2 door.

however, if I ever get another, I would need the 4 door.

but if you need 4 doors, then might aswell get a skyline instead of a camry.

adam - R32 is closer to 1.3tonne.

gts4 is a GTR style 1450kg

now that is of the suck with an RB20

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3514921
Share on other sites

You might find that the 4 doors are a little cheaper for insurance with some companies, (maybe the only 89' 4 door skyline they have in there system is the R31), either that or there isn't as big a data set for 4 door imports as there is for 2 doors to base there stats on. (im sure somebody will correct me on this one, buts this is just my reasoning).

And if you park your car in a tight garage like i do its a hellava lot easier to get out of a four door with its shorter doors than a coupe, at least in my situation.

I may be wrong but you also sit a little higher in the 4 doors with factory seats, but you get shitty cloth instead of the velour in the coupes, unless it have a late model 4 door interior.

None of this will matter if you don't like the look of the sedan. I suppose its just personal choice.

If you using it for a drift hack its way easier to put tyres and tools in the back seat of a 4 door that in a coupe. Just rip the base of the rear seat out and you will have heaps of room!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3514996
Share on other sites

Insurance does have the 4 door R32 on their system.

Mine was insured through AAMI.

true about getting out of the smaller doors.

Seating position is the same in 4 or 2 door.

all 89 and 90 models 2 or 4 door came with the gaybo cloth trim.

funny. I don't I've come across a 91 model R32 yet..

hmmm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3516183
Share on other sites

adam - R32 is closer to 1.3tonne.

gts4 is a GTR style 1450kg

now that is of the suck with an RB20

turf the GTSt guards and bonnet for GTR items and you'll claim back half that weight difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3516202
Share on other sites

turf the GTSt guards and bonnet for GTR items and you'll claim back half that weight difference.

89 gtst = 1290kg

92+ gtst = 1320kg

1450 - 1290 = 160

1450 - 1320 = 130

Half those weights as you say would be 80kg - 65kg

you saying the removal of gts4 items and replacing with GTR items will make that kind of difference?

:rofl::D:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3516305
Share on other sites

About the insurance thing, they didn't have 4 door 32 GTS-4's. I told them that my car's a GTS-4, but I think it's still put down as a GTSt. I keep calling up for them to change it but they end up changing it to an R31, then back to R32 GTSt. I just gave up.

I feel sorry for my RB20 too. :D It's carrying around 1.5tonne. I think it needs to retire and have a RB30/26 take its position. :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3516353
Share on other sites

Half those weights as you say would be 80kg - 65kg

you saying the removal of gts4 items and replacing with GTR items will make that kind of difference?

shaddupayourface i didn't mean take my statement literally :nyaanyaa:

GTS4 4 lyfe nyakuh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3519016
Share on other sites

they are both tough.

I have and slide a 2 door but i have also driven and hade a fair slide in a 4 door. if you are not partial to either just buy the best condition one you canfor the money you have to spend.

4 doors are a bit more forgiving to slide as they take a bit longer to get out but are easier to correct. the coupe is always a bit easier to sell and you will get more attention with it. but the 4 door is easier to live with day to day.

50/50 but i voted for the coupe :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196335-r32/#findComment-3534887
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...