Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at getting some adj camber arms for f+r

Can only find places with Cusco/Tein for my car.

And i have checked Nengun/Greenline/PerfectRun

Where can i see some Ikeya Formula products?

Or do any of our sponsors stock these?

Cheers~

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196517-ikeya-formula/
Share on other sites

They seem to be good enough for street cars and low/mild track cars....we used the lower control arms for our r33 and ran out of adjustment and also found the balljoint was at the wrong angle, as soon as we went past -3 degrees of camber the balljoint bound up and wouldnt turn....had to modify the suckers so we could get a descent amount of adjustment out of them.

After using their lower control arms and finding how limited they were in adjustment, it makes me wonder just how 'good' their stuff really is, maybe im just more the type who would rather make their own stuff to suit the situation.

Check to see how much adjustability they offer before you buy them. For a street/road car application im sure it would be good enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196517-ikeya-formula/#findComment-3524350
Share on other sites

i tend to agree. the ikeya stuff doesn't really blow me away quality wise. the cusco arms i have are much nicer then the ikeya once i have. cusco ones have bigger rose joints, better (3 piece, stainless, thick shell) rose joints and just seem nicer quality. but cusco don't make 32 GTR traction rods so i used ikeya for those. don't get me wrong, i wouldn't say they are crap, but they are not amazing either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196517-ikeya-formula/#findComment-3525314
Share on other sites

i tend to agree. the ikeya stuff doesn't really blow me away quality wise. the cusco arms i have are much nicer then the ikeya once i have. cusco ones have bigger rose joints, better (3 piece, stainless, thick shell) rose joints and just seem nicer quality. but cusco don't make 32 GTR traction rods so i used ikeya for those. don't get me wrong, i wouldn't say they are crap, but they are not amazing either.

nagisa-auto FTW :D top bloke great gear and get pissed whilst browsing :( i remmeber the lower arms and stuff i bought there about 5 years back... stunning and 20 beers later we managed to escape his shop.... the best thing about his shop was a little sign on the toilets... has anyone been there and seen it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196517-ikeya-formula/#findComment-3526066
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...