Jump to content
SAU Community

Dr30/mr30 Gear, Sale Sa Only

Blue Dynamite
 Share

Recommended Posts

Blue Dynamite Enthusiast

Blue Dynamite

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello everyone I no longer have time for cars anymore.

SELLING:

DR30

FRONT STRUTS x2, brakes, King Springs, Noltech bushed control arms, also have original DR30 springs and electric spring heighten'er thingos, strong shocks, frontal Whiteline swaybar incl.

REAR STRUTS x2, whole crossmember, assembled with R30 rear swaybar, DR30 Brakes, noltech swaybar bushing, King Springs, ok shocks.

$550 for everything above. ono

All of the re bushing done has cost me an odd $230 alone and was done with Noltech bushes (Have receipts) I know I'm not getting that back but realise it's mention might be respected in the buy.

General R30 gear that is half mentioned/not mentioned:

Front and rear Whiteline Swaybars, never been used! ~(both come with front and rear strut packages)~

Solid MR30 gearbox $50

MR30 brake booster/master cyl 3/4" clean and good condition $ 10

MR30 TI ALLOYS, 7, 2 with good matching tires, 16 wheelnuts, $200 ono.

Good clean MR30 Radiator $20

L28 block, flat top pistons $100.

$750 for everything on/in a rolling shell ono.

All of this will fit into an R30 skyline. I also have MUCH more stuff and am pretty easy about parting with it. I have already taken some pictures and plan to get them up when I can get the cable to do so. Post back if you're interested with inquiries.

Edited by Blue Dynamite
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196565-dr30mr30-gear-sale-sa-only/
Share on other sites
Blue Dynamite Enthusiast

Blue Dynamite

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey man, quick q

the gearbox manual 1? if so synchros all good?

and also do u have a gd manual mr30 sedan tailshaft?

cheers...

both G/B's are manual,

As far as synchros go one is deemed to be better than the other, although I haven't tested it I was told by the person I got it from that he thought it was really good. But if there's any way to check it out without completely dismantling it only to have to re-construct it then I'm good for that (I was going to use it in my project). Anyway that one is $50, the other one thats synchros to 2nd and 3rd arent so good occasionally is $30

I have 3 spare MR30 manual tailshafts, lets say $15 each(goes for g/b mini crossmember + other sectioned tailshaft). probably got everything for an mr30 manual conversion or two minus decent clutches.

Also got spare electric doors in super good nick if anyone wants them for $10 'all'(that's about scrap value isnt it?). They are purplish silver, (light metallic blueish). Good paint ftr.

You are in Adelaide right?

benny_blanco Proficient

benny_blanco

Posted
Posted

im interested in just the switches of the electric window, If they looked like the one in my DR.... Its the only thing missing in my DR and its pissing me off!!! hahaha

I got given some but they dont match, I dont even think they were off a R series ;)

If you wanna part with just the rear switches let me know. but I would like to see a pic first to see they are the right ones im after.

Blue Dynamite Enthusiast

Blue Dynamite

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Which chassis / body is the rolling shell (sedan / hatch)?

Sedan, but the paint is pretty gone. The insides arent that great either but the rust it does have is meager surface and there's not much of it.

edit- ill try and get some pictures of the whole package in thorough detail asap.

Cheers, Rick.

Edited by Blue Dynamite
  • 4 weeks later...
eL Cid 26 Apprentice

eL Cid 26

Posted
Posted
I got someone interested in the whole package so I'm going to see how that goes.

Ill keep you posted, at the very least you should be able to get a spare twin tailshaft etc..

Rick.

Hey mate, have you sold it yet? I'm after bits for a manual conversion.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Archies Flame Grille Meet & Cruise to Kurnell

      By Matt Z · Posted

      Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...