Waggon Off

[unique1]

Nice work Mitchy, u got abit to catch the gto yet what mph were u doing in the leggy?

[mitchy_]

Nice work Mitchy, u got abit to catch the gto yet what mph were u doing in the leggy?

94mph

hopefully it wont be long before it has a bigger fmic, exhaust, intake, safc, ebc, etc...

the compliance cat is some cheap nasty item, and apparently a decent set of dump pipes really wakes the legnums up

might have to chuck a high-stall in there when i pull the box out... 2500rpm launch is piss weak!

[Appealing]

I too did the manual Boost controller, thingy... but mine was a waste of time.

I bought the cheapie that is really raved about on these forums, only to find that it full boosted straight away, went to 1.07 bar, and the boost cut came on.

I backed it right off until the adjuster (bolt) was nearly out... No difference..

I took the spring & ball out.... no difference

I eventually realised that the orifice in the adapter was far too small, so I removed it.

I managed a 14.997 with the controller in, and the car cut out twice before the finish line.

I got a 15.01 without it.... so I was happy.

3rd gear surge with the controller was noticeably better.

My speedo was a mile out, reading 160kph at finish, when the car was only doing 141. It's got me wondering if the cut out was actually speedo related.

The main thing was I beat an XR8 Falcon and an R8 commodore!!

All in all it was a great night.

The M35, ran pretty good, but they are heavy.

Also it's worth mentioning that both the M35, (Karl's car), and the Commodore wagon (his mate Pete) that he raced against all night, were both set up with hand controls, due to both owners being paraplegics.

So hopefully that'll be a big slap in the face for all those lame arses that didn't even bother to show.

It seems that some people are more "able" than others! Even without full use of their limbs!

So a big well done to Karl and Pete..... showing up and having a go, is what Whoop Ass Wednesdays is all about.

It took them both a while to come to grips with the launches, but in the end Karl shaved 2 secs off his initial run. I believe that his best was a 15.4 sec.

Next time I want to have a run against him.....just to proove that the C34's still cut it.

A big thanks to Chuckie too, pit crew extraordinaire (to everyone).

We'll set up another in the New Year..... hopefully we'll get more people turn up.

[pixel8r]

whoops....

the only mod is a manual boost controller.

stock exhaust, stock intake, even a crappy compliance spec cat and filter!

stock boost is about 8psi, and i had it set at 12psi, but it tapers off to about 10psi higher up (I need a EBC!)

the 'not much quicker' was referring to the aristo... i expected a 3L TT sedan to go more than 0.1s faster than a 2.5L TT wagon

the SS wagon was also a VY, so it was only the 5.7L LS1, i'm not sure what they are supposed to do, but i know the LS2 powered utes are supposed to do ~14 flat (my old man wants to try his against the legnum ), so a LS1 wagon doing 15 sounds about right.

oh ok. thats still pretty good. obviously a lot less restrictions for the legnum - what i mean is the turbo has steel wheels and has no issues with higher boost, no issues with boost cut (R&R/whatever), and it seems the exhaust is still breathing well enough to handle 12psi just fine.

just a pity our stageas need a little bit of housekeeping (steel wheeled turbo, piggyback ecu) to reach the same level

Go the exhaust for sure. Do leggy's sound good with an exhaust? Only reason I ask is I've heard plenty of lancers and magnas that sound woeful (even though the owners seem to think they're sik!!). The legnum is streets ahead of the magna in terms of power and technology so I'd expect it to sound fairly good yeah?

[ssshonky]

I feel guilty now.. as it was probably ME that raved about that boost controller

they can be a right Pr1ck to set up ..

what boost did you want it at? as I hear they are hard to regulate when you approach the 16-18psi rate.

[Appealing]

I feel guilty now.. as it was probably ME that raved about that boost controller

they can be a right Pr1ck to set up ..

what boost did you want it at? as I hear they are hard to regulate when you approach the 16-18psi rate.

No Sean, it wasn't just you. If you look up the original thread, there are 80 pages (I kid you not)..... I didn't read them all... maybe I should have...... oh well it was cheap.

The ebay seller gives it a really good rap...(that's where I got the link to the 80 page post).

I am only going to put up neutral feedback.... in a word the thing is ..... lets say, not good.

They sure don't suit Stagea S2's....(and therefore I doubt that they will suit any RB25 DET).

[pixel8r]

No Sean, it wasn't just you. If you look up the original thread, there are 80 pages (I kid you not)..... I didn't read them all... maybe I should have...... oh well it was cheap.

The ebay seller gives it a really good rap...(that's where I got the link to the 80 page post).

I am only going to put up neutral feedback.... in a word the thing is ..... lets say, not good.

They sure don't suit Stagea S2's....(and therefore I doubt that they will suit any RB25 DET).

Please dont assume that just because your setup isn't how you like that it is a problem with the product. The unit you have may be faulty, or not set up correctly...

OR, given that when you wound it all the way out it still boosted above 5psi, maybe you have an issue with your wastegate actuator or something. With no boost controller connected up, you shouldn't be able to get above 5psi. The way the stock controller works is by bleeding off some pressure in order to make it run 7psi (after 4500rpm). The way the turbotech (i assume thats what you have) controller works, is to have a spring holding a ball bearing in the way of pressure line so that when the pressure builds enough to dislodge the ball bearing, the wastegate actuator then sees full pressure immediately, opens the wastegate, and thereby ensures that boost doesn't build further.

The reason the turbotech controller received such good feedback is because people USED it and it worked for them. Myself included. I've been running this brand controller for over 6 months now and it works without a hitch. Its only set to around 10psi but I've checked it with my guage and it will boost quickly up to 10psi and then stop there and it remains constant right through to the redline. If you had a controller that was that accurate you'd rave about it too.

Its unfortunate that you haven't had the same luck, but I have an S2 stagea and this controller works GREAT on my car.

Is there a possibility that either controller was not set up correctly or that there may be another issue with your boost? Might be worth checking that out. In any case, a GOOD electronic boost controller will give you more flexibility anyway and will work best. Hope you get it sorted

Edited December 21, 2007 by pixel8r

[mitchy_]

oh ok. thats still pretty good. obviously a lot less restrictions for the legnum - what i mean is the turbo has steel wheels and has no issues with higher boost, no issues with boost cut (R&R/whatever), and it seems the exhaust is still breathing well enough to handle 12psi just fine.

just a pity our stageas need a little bit of housekeeping (steel wheeled turbo, piggyback ecu) to reach the same level

Go the exhaust for sure. Do leggy's sound good with an exhaust? Only reason I ask is I've heard plenty of lancers and magnas that sound woeful (even though the owners seem to think they're sik!!). The legnum is streets ahead of the magna in terms of power and technology so I'd expect it to sound fairly good yeah?

the main reason i think it goes so well is the low down torque, it feels like a baby V8 rather than a twin turbo 6.

when i first drove the car i felt disappointed by the acceleration, until i looked at the speedo and realised i was doing 120 when i thought i was going 80.

while the steel wheel turbo's can take a fair bit of boost (up to ~18psi) they are only tiny TD03's, so they run out of puff quickly, and the factory boost cut is around 13-14psi, so i was trying to stay clear of that.

exhaust wise i'm not sure what they sound like actually.. the engine noise sounds very grumbly though, so the exhaust is hopefully the same.

also about the boost controller, i had one in my 33 holding 13psi perfectly.

spiking to 1 bar sounds like you installed it backwards...

[pixel8r]

the main reason i think it goes so well is the low down torque, it feels like a baby V8 rather than a twin turbo 6.

when i first drove the car i felt disappointed by the acceleration, until i looked at the speedo and realised i was doing 120 when i thought i was going 80.

while the steel wheel turbo's can take a fair bit of boost (up to ~18psi) they are only tiny TD03's, so they run out of puff quickly, and the factory boost cut is around 13-14psi, so i was trying to stay clear of that.

exhaust wise i'm not sure what they sound like actually.. the engine noise sounds very grumbly though, so the exhaust is hopefully the same.

also about the boost controller, i had one in my 33 holding 13psi perfectly.

spiking to 1 bar sounds like you installed it backwards...

The reason I was interested is because my brother-in-law has been drooling over legnums for quite some time now (currently has a magna - definitely not my cup of tea). I've seen a couple in caryards here, but I've only seen 1 driving on the road, black with bodykit and bigger rims.

It had what you might call a certain "presence" about it and definitely got a lot of attention from myself, but I've gotta admit it looked a bit odd. Dont get me wrong, a lot of people say the same about stageas (and fair enough). I dont dislike them either, and they're a damn good wagon, especially the interior and especially on paper.

[pixel8r]

also just a quick note about the turbotech controller (and any aftermarket boost controller), make sure the stock solenoid is actually closed off, ie. plug the ends of the hoses with something, either before or after the solenoid - doesn't matter. Basically the standard setup should all be disconnected and the turbotech should only have one hose going to the actuator and one to the rear/middle of the turbo. Thats all. All other boost lines should be closed off.

Also check that the controller isn't installed backwards, as mitchy suggested. You should have received a diagram with it that tells you which way round it should go. When you get it it should be preset to about 8psi. Mine was. If you wind it out further it should go down a little, but its impossible to go below 5psi just with the controller. Winding it in tighter will result in more boost, but be aware that a 1/4 turn can raise boost by 1-2psi, possibly more as the boost goes up....ie. once it starts getting tighter, the boost will raise by more and more with each 1/4 turn so be very careful and do it in very small increments, maybe 1/4 or 1/8 turn each time between tests...

Once set, tighten the lock nut thingy against the controller so that it wont move, preferrably tighter than just finger-tight.

If that still doesn't work, its possible the ball bearing and spring have been dislodged - this can apparently happen if you wind it out too far. They can be reseated fairly easily so I'm told.

[Topkart R33]

No Sean, it wasn't just you. If you look up the original thread, there are 80 pages (I kid you not)..... I didn't read them all... maybe I should have...... oh well it was cheap.

The ebay seller gives it a really good rap...(that's where I got the link to the 80 page post).

I am only going to put up neutral feedback.... in a word the thing is ..... lets say, not good.

They sure don't suit Stagea S2's....(and therefore I doubt that they will suit any RB25 DET).

The Boost controller in question works fine as i used it in my old 33 for over 2years no problem whatsoever. Even the tuner said it held boost rather nicely all the way through the rev range when it was on the dyno. Have a look at your setup cause the controller is very basic ant not really proned to failure. The guy has sold lots of these and if they were sh*t then it would be 80 pages of complaints.....

[Appealing]

OK, obviously this needs clearing up.....

The boost controller isn't a Turbotech.

It's a JRD.

It is made up of a very standard Tee-piece, and two unions for the hoses, a ball bearing, a spring , bolt & lock-nut.

on initial install (incidentally done at a tuning centre), I knew that it was high boosting as soon as I left.

I got home (5 mins away) and started backing off the bolt. After a few runs around the block I had the bolt right out to the last threads. It was still about the same. I didn't have time to play with it further, and decided to do it at the track.

I did 2 or 3 runs at the drag strip (about 1 hour after the install). It was max boosting & cutting. I removed the ball and spring...... so anyone at this point would expect the car to return to standard boost mode.

No, it was still boosting..... after looking at the holes in the unions, I found that they are about 2mm in dia, the Factory pipes are about 4-5mm. That is one big restriction on its own. Obviously far too much for my S2.

The hoses were a loose fit and required tightening with hose clamps a fair way. (this should have warned us).

So as I see it the controller, controls nothing. It is poorly researched and needs a larger inlet and outlet hole.

I am not disputing that the idea is solid but it sure didn't work on mine.

I may look at either replacement, or modifying it. But one thing is very clear to me and that it that the flow needs to be unrestricted initally, so that it can be restricted gradually and thereby giving the control that the item claims to be able to do. This item controls nothing, it is a restrictor and that is all.

I have to written to the seller. I'll post up the resolution.

Edited December 21, 2007 by Appealing

[mitchy_]

[Appealing]

Some pics that Chuckie took on the night....

[pixel8r]

OK, obviously this needs clearing up.....

The boost controller isn't a Turbotech.

It's a JRD.

It is made up of a very standard Tee-piece, and two unions for the hoses, a ball bearing, a spring , bolt & lock-nut.

on initial install (incidentally done at a tuning centre), I knew that it was high boosting as soon as I left.

I got home (5 mins away) and started backing off the bolt. After a few runs around the block I had the bolt right out to the last threads. It was still about the same. I didn't have time to play with it further, and decided to do it at the track.

I did 2 or 3 runs at the drag strip (about 1 hour after the install). It was max boosting & cutting. I removed the ball and spring...... so anyone at this point would expect the car to return to standard boost mode.

No, it was still boosting..... after looking at the holes in the unions, I found that they are about 2mm in dia, the Factory pipes are about 4-5mm. That is one big restriction on its own. Obviously far too much for my S2.

The hoses were a loose fit and required tightening with hose clamps a fair way. (this should have warned us).

So as I see it the controller, controls nothing. It is poorly researched and needs a larger inlet and outlet hole.

I am not disputing that the idea is solid but it sure didn't work on mine.

I may look at either replacement, or modifying it. But one thing is very clear to me and that it that the flow needs to be unrestricted initally, so that it can be restricted gradually and thereby giving the control that the item claims to be able to do. This item controls nothing, it is a restrictor and that is all.

I have to written to the seller. I'll post up the resolution.

Sorry to hear that. And I can feel your frustration too because I too bought one of these JRD ones first, before I heard about the turbotech ones.

In my case I was lucky in that it seemed to work. It would spike to 12psi but would then drop instantly back to 10psi and then fade off to 9psi by the time it reached the redline And to make things worse, it was quite unpredictable, ie. it didn't give the same boost response between gearchanges or even on different days...it just wasn't reliable enough for day-to-day driving! Without something to compare it with however, I didn't pick this up until after I switched to the turbotech

If you're wanting an IEBC anyway, then that will be your best option in the long run due to better tuning capabilities and in-cabin switching of boost on-the-fly.

But if you're willing to try the turbotech you'll (hopefully) be impressed by how well it performs. There is a thread on here ("$22 boost controller" or something like that in the subject) where many people have had excellent results from it, and for the price it cant be beat. There is a member on here who sells them but I'm not sure if he still goes on SAU...I bought mine from ebay as he sells them on ebay primarily.

The newer ones have a tiny hole drilled in the back of them which apparently improves boost response between gearchanges and it seemed to work for me

When I changed from the JRD to the turbotech I noticed an immediate improvement, not just in holding boost better, but it also boosted up quicker and made the car noticeably more responsive in lower revs.

I would never recommend the JRD to anyone based on my experience with it, but I would 100% recommend the turbotech. As I said before, I've been using it for ~6 months now and its been flawless. Holds boost around 10-11 psi all the way to redline I'd need to upgrade my fuel pump to run higher than that so this is the only reason for the low boost at the moment

[ausis]

Some pics that Chuckie took on the night....

Well didn't beat him.

Once I had worked out how better to get off the line things went a little better for me. But on standard boost the stag was a bit difficult to get it off the line quickly. If I could get it to staging first get time to build boost it would do a 15 flat or even go high 14's with a more experienced driver. Pete and myself were neck and neck till the stag changed to 3, wear Pete would surge a little in front. Interesting fact though Pete was always just that little bit quicker going through all the markers except the last one. Top speed at the end 146km/h for the stag and same for the comm, go figure?Best time stag 15.4 best time comm 14.8.The larger wheels should have made no difference as they have very close to the same rolling diameter to standard. Standard is 18" 225/55 Whats on there is 20" 225/35. Only a poofteenth in it and not worth mentioning. I tried many ways of getting up the track quickly. Doing a manual shift auto shift short shift and just reving the shit out of it before changing. The best way for me was to not quite hit the floor with the gas pedal and let it do its own thing in the gear changing department.As I said before being my first time to drive a car down the strip. I recon a better driver would get a 15 flat easily and possibly sneak it into the high 14's.But in my humble opinion "I NEED MORE BOOST"I will take it back to the track I hope before the track closes for winter, if I can manage to get some tuning done. Maybe bigger turbo injectors piggyback and better get some info on the box, see what can be done there to make it handle a few extra ponies.When the car is finished ( in the next 15 years or so LOL ) I would like 300 - 350kw at the wheels.I know I need to talk to lots of professionals get lots of opinions to achieve the best way of doing this. But not in a hurry, plenty of time to do it.That and a shot of Nos it might take a couple of seconds off that time.

[ausis]

OK, obviously this needs clearing up.....

The boost controller isn't a Turbotech.

It's a JRD.

It is made up of a very standard Tee-piece, and two unions for the hoses, a ball bearing, a spring , bolt & lock-nut.

on initial install (incidentally done at a tuning centre), I knew that it was high boosting as soon as I left.

I got home (5 mins away) and started backing off the bolt. After a few runs around the block I had the bolt right out to the last threads. It was still about the same. I didn't have time to play with it further, and decided to do it at the track.

I did 2 or 3 runs at the drag strip (about 1 hour after the install). It was max boosting & cutting. I removed the ball and spring...... so anyone at this point would expect the car to return to standard boost mode.

No, it was still boosting..... after looking at the holes in the unions, I found that they are about 2mm in dia, the Factory pipes are about 4-5mm. That is one big restriction on its own. Obviously far too much for my S2.

The hoses were a loose fit and required tightening with hose clamps a fair way. (this should have warned us).

So as I see it the controller, controls nothing. It is poorly researched and needs a larger inlet and outlet hole.

I am not disputing that the idea is solid but it sure didn't work on mine.

I may look at either replacement, or modifying it. But one thing is very clear to me and that it that the flow needs to be unrestricted initally, so that it can be restricted gradually and thereby giving the control that the item claims to be able to do. This item controls nothing, it is a restrictor and that is all.

I have to written to the seller. I'll post up the resolution.

Mine arived on the 24/12/07 A little late for the drags but I have it now. Not sure how to fit it up to nm35. Might make a mess of it so will wait and take it in to someone who knows a lot more than I.

[snapper]

Well didn't beat him.

Once I had worked out how better to get off the line things went a little better for me. But on standard boost the stag was a bit difficult to get it off the line quickly. If I could get it to staging first get time to build boost it would do a 15 flat or even go high 14's with a more experienced driver. Pete and myself were neck and neck till the stag changed to 3, wear Pete would surge a little in front. Interesting fact though Pete was always just that little bit quicker going through all the markers except the last one. Top speed at the end 146km/h for the stag and same for the comm, go figure?Best time stag 15.4 best time comm 14.8.The larger wheels should have made no difference as they have very close to the same rolling diameter to standard. Standard is 18" 225/55 Whats on there is 20" 225/35. Only a poofteenth in it and not worth mentioning. I tried many ways of getting up the track quickly. Doing a manual shift auto shift short shift and just reving the shit out of it before changing. The best way for me was to not quite hit the floor with the gas pedal and let it do its own thing in the gear changing department.As I said before being my first time to drive a car down the strip. I recon a better driver would get a 15 flat easily and possibly sneak it into the high 14's.But in my humble opinion "I NEED MORE BOOST"I will take it back to the track I hope before the track closes for winter, if I can manage to get some tuning done. Maybe bigger turbo injectors piggyback and better get some info on the box, see what can be done there to make it handle a few extra ponies.When the car is finished ( in the next 15 years or so LOL ) I would like 300 - 350kw at the wheels.I know I need to talk to lots of professionals get lots of opinions to achieve the best way of doing this. But not in a hurry, plenty of time to do it.That and a shot of Nos it might take a couple of seconds off that time.

Cmon girls & boys dont get down coz a slurrydore

beat one stag lets us all get down & show them how

its done !

[mitchy_]

i beat the commonwhore

[chuckie]

Cmon girls & boys dont get down coz a slurrydore

beat one stag lets us all get down & show them how

its done !

3 WEEK`S OF POST`S WITH THE TIME,DAY & VENUE,AND HOW SHOWED UP JOHN,BATMAN&ROBIN,SORRY DID I MISS ANY BODY ???,YES MYGOOD SELF ,IF KARL HAS THE TIME TO GET OFF FORM WORK ?????? THEN MAY BE HE WILL PUT A POST UP & LET`S HOPE WE HAVE SOME BODY COME DOWN,TO HAVE A LAUGH&JOKE WOULD BE GREAT TO SEE SOME OF YOU ROCK UP ???????.SO COME ON KARL GIVE THE BOSS & GET IT HAPPENING WAGON OFF TAKE TWO,cheer`s chuckie