Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have a R32 GTS4.

Recently the ATESSA is playing up and ive already checked the fluid levels. When i'm cruising at say 100 down the freeway it's trying to transfer torque to the front wheels when it should all obviously be going to the back. You can feel the transfer case put some up at the front then stop and try again, meanwhile my front torque guage is getting anywhere up to 15kg's. I'm wondering what the hell is wrong with it? I have been told briefly about the attessa computer flashin up codes to let you know whats wrong, however i'm not hugely familliar with this? Also that if the ATTESSA senses it's stuffing up it is supposed to divert all power to the rear wheels as it's a safety issue and buggers your transfer case, but mine isn't doing that when ive had the fuse in. I think a possible problem is the G-meter is playing up, but i just wanted to know if anyone has experienced this at all in their R32 GTR/GTS4? If so any help would be VERY much appreciated!

Cheers guys :D

Edited by WhatBrake
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197330-atessa-playing-up/
Share on other sites

^ Had these exact symptoms when i had new ever-so-slightly larger rolling diameter tyres put on the back.

The attessa fault codes are easy to read, the led on the unit in the boot flashes a certain amount of times for the fault code(s) with a pause in between each fault. Just search on here for the code listing.

make sure all the wheels/tyres are exactly the same size.I had this problem in a GTS4 I had.It would pick up a small vibration and torque guage would start flickering slightly.Standard wheels back on problem solved

Hey cheers guys!

Yeah a few weeks ago I had my fronts changed (same tyres as before) but obviously they have more tread than the ones at the rear. And considering my rears are now due for a change, it seems a new set on the back should resolve the problem. I'l change them out the end of this week and see what happens. Still has been fun driving around in RWD for a few weeks, haha.

Take it easy

Rhys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...