Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I bought a rb25det engine with box for my S13!!

I am looking for over 500hp for drag strip and everyday car!

I will for the begining that I don't have much money to spend and I also want a safe motor!

Where is the limit of the stock pistons? How much horses can handle with good rich mapping (high 11 afrs?) ?

And where is the limit of the stock rods? How many rpm can handle and how can I avoid any damage of them with my driving?

Can I strengh the rod's limits with changing the bolts with arp? I read somewhere this but please confirm this to me :blush:

I will work with stock cams and head!

The parts I will order are:

Greddy style intake

Q45 throttle body

XS Power top mount manifold (I will increase it strengh with a "help bar" and some extra welds)

JUN Crank Collar

N1 oil pump

Tomei oil gallery ofrice (and I will block one oil feed and I will increase the flow of the oil return)

52mm koyo style cooler

I have fmic from my previous motor with core 600x300x76mm and if you think that it isn't enough I can put a same with 100mm core!

I am from Greece and the climate here is quite hot.

My exhaust is 3"! Enough?

I have walbro fuel pump and as I read I need a fuel pressure regulator because stock of rb can't control the big fuel pressure of the walbro!

555cc injectors and 300zx maf and remapping the stock ecu.

And I will try to buy a twin plate clutch kit instead to buy a single ACT even then I read that act can handle 500hp!

If I will buy a twin plate maybe I will buy

Also I bought a gasket kit to replace everything! Also head gasket I will leave the stock.. what limits it have? I read something for 1.2bar boost!

I don't know yet what turbo to use....!

Garret choices:

GT3076 I think that with this I couldn't go more than 520hp..

GT3582 Garret says 400-600hp according the housing...!

Greedy TD06 25!! At 1.15bar with absolutely stock motor got 500bhp!!

Anyone knows how much more can go with more boost?

Turbonetics GT-K 550!! I love the look of this turbo! :banana: 500-600hp rated!

Also any help with the garret turbos what horsepower you can think that can give with the same boost to compare and with what compressor housing? (1.1-1.2 bar)

Garret's are also cheaper choice!

Also please tell me your comments for my choices, tell me what else I will need and help as much as you can :banana:

Edited by GreeceS13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197729-rb25-setup-help-for-over-500hp/
Share on other sites

I dont think 500hp will last long on stock internals, i hope thats a metal head gasket.

At least get forged rods and pistons, and balance the motor.

I would go with a GT35R or a GT3582. With a .82 housing, ur 3 inch will be fine.

You should get the power with standard cams, but i would definately get some minor head work done.

Edited by subzeroR33

500hp at the crank is approx. 270-320rwkw, depending on drive train and friction etc, its way too variable to put a hard and fast figure on the conversion from chp to whp.

But a std motor will handle up to 300rwkw, but when you get to that level its a roll of the dice as to how long your motor will last.

But I don't care what you say, DA is correct, it'll cost you heaps..............its reality, you can't avoid it.

Ok maybe it will cost and more... but I don't ask you tell me how much will cost!

I ask many questions... can anyone reply me please?

Please I need replies in all of my question... they are very important for me..!

Also I need ecu as my tunner said me that it cannot remapping the stock..!

Emanage choice is good? Can I have launch control for drag strip? Can it increase rev limiter (because a friend told me that it cannot)? Also I don't need 300zx maf right? Can I run with only the map sensor or it needs the stock maf?

Edited by GreeceS13

just buy a GTR with the amount of money u have to spend to get the power u need.

"I will for the begining that I don't have much money to spend and I also want a safe motor!"

If you dont have enuff money to spend why u telling people no to tell you about prices. They are being realistic and have obviously gone down this path before. If you dont have 10-15k to spend on the car then why bother even thinking of doing it.

To me it all sounds like a lil kid with a big dream, and then he wakes up with his pants wet.

Im not very good with crank horsepower as it doesnt mean shit to me, but personally i wouldnt bother opening up the engine so your going to save a bit of costs there. If it does go bang rebuild it with forged bits. Personally i dont think you will have any issues with it.

They run 9.1 comp ratio which is nice and high, so in my opinion run a gt3076 (.82) with upgraded injectors, pump etc and a good computer without an afm

A friend here is running 270kws at 14psi on a stock as a rock rb25 so its very doable.

Start off with running that turbo on the standard exhaust housing and i think that should get near your power goals without being that expensive.

Edited by SirRacer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...