Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My RB20 has developed a rather nasty, harsh, rhythmic sounding rattle. Its a lot like a bad lifter sound but its concentrated and sharper, louder.

It happens from 2500rpm+ but stays pretty constant right to high revs. Oil pressure is fine.

It disappears with load, but is always evident on light throttle/free revving anywhere over 2500rpm, and sometimes on decel as you close the throttle.

Thicker oil seemed to move the noise up in the rev range a little without changing its pitch or volume.

It does sound a bit more randomly "clattery" on sustained light throttle, but in general its a rhythmic, constant noise until you gas it.

Noise is definitely concentrated in the top end.

Edited by floody
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197765-rb20det-top-end-rattleclatter/
Share on other sites

Ok, I'm coming to the conclusion its in the bottom end, but that doesn't explain why its most apparent only on light load.

Also, would it be likely a bottom end rattle would set off the rich & retard functions of the ECU via the knock sensor? I note if I load the car up and launch off the line under load, hence no rattling, it pulls hard and clean through the revs, however if I walk off the line, move slowly up through the revs (and can audibly hear the rattle) then stab the throttle it overfuels and misses badly, feels to me like its very rich, very retarded.

I know its not an RB26, but maybe someone will have some ideas.

Edited by floody
Really, best bet is take it to trusted mechanic. Trying to diagnose noises over the internet is near impossible :D Good luck with it

Oh I agree, about as easy as giving a haircut over the phone. I was hoping someone might think that my account was a bit similar to their experience. Trusted mechanic...I wish :) Looks like I'll have to skin some more knuckles and rip it to bits.

  • 3 weeks later...

Update:

I've had both rocker covers off, turned it over on the starter and everything certainly looks to be working at that speed and everything rotates and reciprocates silently.

Tried different oil and flush to no avail.

The noise has become a bit more tinny but otherwise is just the same. Have done the long bar "microphone" thing and its definitely a top end noise.

Oil is clean, no particles etc that you wouldn't expect.

Must be getting on for 3500+ kms since I heard the noise so I am fairly confident its not a big end.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...