Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i can hear it when i connect pin 9 so maybe i did pin 46 wrong?

i probed the wire as shown in the 2nd foto and i could hear the compressor clicking and i assume that means its working fine yeah?

i just wired the one next to power steering resevoir (light green/red stripe) one to earth for now lol

ill play around with it again when it dries up abit

if not i might just get 2 G U UP to do it for me.

Edited by whyte
yeah i can hear it when i connect pin 9 so maybe i did pin 46 wrong?

i probed the wire as shown in the 2nd foto and i could hear the compressor clicking and i assume that means its working fine yeah?

i just wired the one next to power steering resevoir (light green/red stripe) one to earth for now lol

ill play around with it again when it dries up abit

if not i might just get 2 G U UP to do it for me.

I have posted some photos showing the rb25 plug (near the power steering reservoir) and the wire which goes to pin 9. I have then taken a photo of the Rb25 plug connected to my R32 body loom plug and have shown which 2 wires need to be connected for pin 9 to be operational (I have used my test light).

Sounds like you found the right wire given you can hear the compressor cutting in. With the compressor operating you can turn the AC on and it should work. As a temporary fix, I would suggest running a wire from pin 9 wire to a switch which is connected to earth. This way you can manually switch the compressor on when you want to run the AC until you get the rest sorted.

When I get some time next week I'll take some photos of the plugs in the passenger foot well.

Cheers

post-16836-1198146833_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1198146892_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1198146959_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1198147099_thumb.jpg

post-16836-1198147171_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

im having the exact same problem ben. can u tell me what all the other wires in the rb25 plug on the strut tower are for? i have one hooked up for the injectors so far and am not sure what the other ones are for?

I had the same problem when I was installing the LEDs for the dash a month ago.

Didn't know how I fixed it but apparently I just unplugged everything on the dash and the AC unit then replugged it back it and el presto it works!!!

Same thing happened just last week when I was installing some buttons on the dash for my interior neons

So you might just wanna give that a go

I actually was intending to upload some more photos and further explanations over the christmas break but I only got as far as taking the photos. I'll try and put something together tonight if I get a chance.

I have put together a rough guide to wiring up an RB25 series 1 for an R32 GTS/T for another member (updated version of the one I sent you Mark), but its probably not really in laymans terms and only covers the main wires. Unfortunately I don't have the time at present to go into too much depth due to other commitments. When I eventually do get some free time I will try and simplify the guide and update it with pin information.

Cheers

Ok, I have attached a rough guide to wiring up the AC which addresses both pin 9 and pin 46. Once you have connected theses wires as instructed you need to carry out a couple of tests. I had to split the document into 2 because of size.

1. Measure the voltage at pin 46 whilst the AC is off, it should read about battery voltage. Likewise measure the voltage at pin 9 and it should also be battery voltage. If you don't have battery voltage at pin 9 then it is likely the pressure switch is open (low gas pressure) or a fuse is blown.

2. Switch the AC on and measure the voltage at pin 46 and it should read about 0-1V. If it is still battery voltage the ECU thinks the AC has not been requested to turn on and therefore will not earth pin 9 and thereby not switching on the compressor. This could be caused by a faulty climate control sensor and you should run the climate diagnostics to view any errors or false readings. A likely culprit (as I found recently) is a faulty intake air temp sensor which in my case read about -24degs. The climate control therefore obviously felt the compressor was not required due to the already "cold" outside air.

3. If you switch the AC on and the battery voltage at pin 46 drops to approx 0 but the compressor has not kicked in check the voltage at pin 9 and it should also be between 0-1V. If not then check the pressure switch and fuse as mentioned above.

I trust this helps.

Cheers,

Ben

Wiring_pin_46.doc

Wiring_of_Pin_9.doc

Edited by BH_SLO32

when aircon is on the revs are very low & stalls when coming to a stop.

how do i keep my revs up and the car from stalling ??

got a weird problem now, i got my aircon fixed then i tried to fix my wipers.

now i can only have one or the other. if i want aircon, i gotta take off the bridging wire from the wiper motor (turn wiper stalk to on) then turn on aircon as that turns the compressor on? that is a weird thing. if i want wipers, i gotta connect the bridging wire back up.

man this is giving me the shiets :(

Edited by whyte
when aircon is on the revs are very low & stalls when coming to a stop.

how do i keep my revs up and the car from stalling ??

The RB25's come with an FICD (Fast Idle Compensation Device) which bypasses more air around the throttle valve to increase revs when the AC is switched on. My guess is your FICD device is not hooked up. It is part of the AAC valve (2 pin purple plug). As the Rb20s don't have an FICD you will need to activate it with a relay triggered by the activation of the compressor. The alternative would be to increase your base idle to try and compensate for the drop in revs when the AC is switched on. The power feed to the FICD is from the yellow wire at the 8pin plug near the power steering reservoir. To increase the idle speed simply disconnect the AAC plug whilst the engine is idling and adjust the idle speed with the screw and then put the plug back on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...