Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^Ahh, I see why you said what you did andrew, but I was actually trying to take the piss that so many young people "read something on the internet it must be true!"

I actually think that tiptronic auto's are the way to go, anice!

stick to what u believe Lee :)

if tiptronic is the way to go..then why are u driving a manual

btw, how do u launch an auto?...do u rev and brake at the same time? then drop the brake? :blink:

stick to what u believe Lee :)

if tiptronic is the way to go..then why are u driving a manual

btw, how do u launch an auto?...do u rev and brake at the same time? then drop the brake? :blink:

yep that is exactly what you do Andy.

With the stock box and stall converter I can stall my car up to around 2,300rpm - which is just on boost and more than enough for a good launch. But when I get my stall converter upgraded, I will be able to stall to around 2,800 - which in my car is making around 10psi boost and around 100rwkw :D

You would be very surprised at how quick my car is off the line. Can't wait until we finally have a drag strip I can get some numbers on.

I think you rev in nuetral then shift it into low drive? thats how i used to make the traction let go in the old CE Lancer with K&N pod and 2 inch zorst.

That is how you blow a trans :blink:

yep that is exactly what you do Andy.

With the stock box and stall converter I can stall my car up to around 2,300rpm - which is just on boost and more than enough for a good launch. But when I get my stall converter upgraded, I will be able to stall to around 2,800 - which in my car is making around 10psi boost and around 100rwkw :)

You would be very surprised at how quick my car is off the line. Can't wait until we finally have a drag strip I can get some numbers on.

hehe Andrew

im glad u didnt think i was stirring

i had an auto Ford Probe many years ago, V6 but always get out-dragged by my friend's 4 cyl manual :blink:

nah I mate I don't always bite :)

Can't wait until we have a drag strip one day to give you GTR some lessons ROFLMAO :)

I am sure by that time I will own and R34GTR or maybe even an R35GTR :D :thumbsdown:

Another vote for the auto and a shift kit (but I may be a little biased)

For simillar power on a quarter mile it would be a tough call between the GTR and an auto (down to driver skill)

I'd love to have a $ for every GTR i've seen take off at the line and just bog down and do nothing special. When they hook up well they are fantastic, but more often than not I've been disapointed watching the launch.

Another vote for the auto and a shift kit (but I may be a little biased)

For simillar power on a quarter mile it would be a tough call between the GTR and an auto (down to driver skill)

I'd love to have a $ for every GTR i've seen take off at the line and just bog down and do nothing special. When they hook up well they are fantastic, but more often than not I've been disapointed watching the launch.

driver's skill in a straight line? in an automatic? :D

they bog down coz they have a gay-assed clutch that cant handle a 6000-7000 launch

Edited by andz

yep I agree with Guy - GTRs are very hard to launch. See how many goes it takes Keir Wilson or John Munro to get their cars down the drag strip. I reckon the good launches would be 1 in 10 - even with their tough clutches/drivelines etc. Of course that is an extreme example, but you get the idea.

Unfortunately Andy, most GTR clutches would fry on the spot with an 8k launch. Few people even try it (I know you are an exception to the rule :D )

Yes I agree with similar power GTR and a well sorted auto would be a tough battle. Remember too that is takes 0.2 seconds to change gears - so having an auto that changes instantly saves you about 0.8 seconds too!

been in some auto turbo cars and some of them go! maybe because of the longer gear ratios, i don't know but i still prefer manual when it comes to twisty turns because the heel toe method feels smoother when downshifting! or maybe i just haven't driven a well sorted auto in the hills

Are they - I didnt know that :):)

u just ruined it...

and launching a gtr at 8k revs doesnt fry ur clutch? unless you have some 500 dollar one than yea mayb but if ur not cheap and get urself a decent clutch u can launch as much as u want it just comes down to how much power ur car is pulling. if ur driving a gtr i wouldnt think you would be getting a cheap clutch anyway lol.. unless ur an idiot lol :P

yep that is exactly what you do Andy.

With the stock box and stall converter I can stall my car up to around 2,300rpm - which is just on boost and more than enough for a good launch. But when I get my stall converter upgraded, I will be able to stall to around 2,800 - which in my car is making around 10psi boost and around 100rwkw :)

You would be very surprised at how quick my car is off the line. Can't wait until we finally have a drag strip I can get some numbers on.

Autos are very good for launches..

That is how you blow a trans :)

LOL pauly, but not like that :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...