Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so due to a defect i got new advan v103's, camber kits and a tyre saver wheel alignment. the car now feels very floaty at the steering wheel which im not liking. the car previously had a bit of camber and toe in the front, dont know the exact measurements, that gave a more direct handling feel and turnin was alot more crisp. it was great.

just wanted to know how many of you guys are running performance v's tyresaver alignments on your daily drivers? i want to get the most out of the tyres but at the same time get some decent handling out of them also. is it an either or scenario? they are asymetrical and stagered set so i cant rotate them which sucks.

cheers.

I'm in the same boat mate.

My front tyres are wasted on the inside of the tread, though the rest looks like new :D

Rears wear more evenly (though completely bald :) ).

Car is sitting on coilovers and has slightly negative camber, so i'm guessing that's shortening the life of the front tread.

My mate said a camber kit will solve it (but i'm guessing handling will be poorer).

What should i do? The car is only used for street, for now, so do i need a camber kit? Or should i just save the misery of sloppier turn-in and leave it?

I have the Whiteline adjustable camber bushes and adjust them all the way out for street (-1.5) and all the way out for track (-3), although I've got a slightly bent lower control arm at the moment which makes this a lie on one side until I get it fixed/replaced.

Omar, re your fronts, toe or camber can cause this. See if you can get the current settings for us. A wheel alignment shop might put it on the machine for a few $ and we can advise from there. That said, if your steering feels good then it's probably the camber which you can fix with adjustable camber bushes, providing you don't have too much to adjust out, or you can raise the car a little, or a combo of both.

Rears, there is a small amount of adjustment for camber standard but you've probably just lowered it too much so yeah, camber kit again to fix unless raising the car back up again.

Omar, re your fronts, toe or camber can cause this. See if you can get the current settings for us. A wheel alignment shop might put it on the machine for a few $ and we can advise from there. That said, if your steering feels good then it's probably the camber which you can fix with adjustable camber bushes, providing you don't have too much to adjust out, or you can raise the car a little, or a combo of both.

Rears, there is a small amount of adjustment for camber standard but you've probably just lowered it too much so yeah, camber kit again to fix unless raising the car back up again.

I can see by eye all the wheels lean inwards slightly. The handling is crisp too, so i'm guessing its definitely camber. I'm going for a wheel alignment & balance soon, i'll ask for their opinion on the fronts.

I'd probably get the camber bushes if that was the solution, but saying that the nose sits quite low (the front lip might exaggerate that though) so raising a few cms wouldn't be a problem to save $$ on tyres.

I'll probably post again when i get more info and see what my options are.

Thanks Abo Bob.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...