Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok iv finished putting in the hiflow turbo, atm until i get the $ for engine management iv put the stock injectors back in and am still running the stock ecu

iv set the boost to 10psi but the car is making very little power

on the dyno before i put the hiflow on it made 225hp atw, now with the hiflow on it made 130hp atw at the most, the afr's are ok and boost stays at 10psi until red line,, there are no boost leaks and everything appears to be hooked up ok, just has half the power

im taking the car back on friday to get a full inspection to find out what the problem is but im just wondering if any one can give me some insight on what the problem may be

iv been told that the stock ecu might have gone into some limp mode but we have tried disconnecting the battery to reset it but its still the same, the guys im taking it to reckon its some sort of timing issue, the CAS hasnt been touched either so its not that lol

any help would be great :domokun:

sam

oh by the way the car is an r33 gtst series 2,

mods,

splitfire coils

slide hilow

split dump/front pipe into 3 inch straight through

hks pod - s/s intake pipe

hks adjustable wastegate actuator with turbosmart manual boost controller

FMIC

BOV

10psi on the high-flow will be FLOWING alot more air than your standard turbo, even with both set to 10psi.

You might be hitting rich-retard but geeze it dropped alot !

I had my HKS turbo with an R32 actuator on 10psi with no boost controller, and i think it might have even been pinging when pushing it so just be carefull

10psi isn't 10psi if you know what i mean.

This might not even be the problem, but i thought i'd throw it out there :)

Rich and retard DOES NOT "richen" the fuel up.

It only retards ignition.

In fact, on my dyno graph with stock ecu, when I hit R&R my AFR leaned off slightly (Headed back to a nice 11.5:1)

Just rips timing back to around 6-8 degrees

car will be going in tomorow morning for a full check etc etc, so hopefully will find out what the problem is

been getting alot of comments saying its putting out so little power is because of my number plates LOL :whistling:

post-24878-1198149382_thumb.jpg

I know you said there are no leaks. But to me it sounds like a leak you must be missing. When the car is on the dyno and the turbo is spooling you wont hear the leak. Wipe all the piping down with a soapy water and double check.

ok there are def no boost leaks, the workshop i took the car to was under pressure to get cars out today and not much happened, we did eliminate things like boost leaks etc,

they have nailed it down to something wrong with the cas and the camshafts, as they were trying to adjust the timing via the crank angle sensor it was apparent that no timing would adjust, no matter what position the cas was in nothing would happen to the timing, unfortunately they ran out of time to go any further and they dont open back up until the 2nd of January :banana: so its a waiting game until then!!!!!

any one had anything like this happen before?

  • 2 weeks later...

ok they have pulled everything apart and from what they can see is that there is like an aluminum plate or something behind the cam gear cover that has cracked or something along those lines so the cas cant do it job properly,

while they were at it i told them to change the timing belt and they said that it has slipped two teeth :yes:

they are also doing a few other bits and pieces while they are there, oil pump water pump etc, so should have the car back next week :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...