Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What bike do you have now?

CBR250RR's are way too expensive, for a few thousand more you could get a 600 that does double the speed.

ZX250R are pretty good value, but again you'd have to be careful not to buy a dud.

Both are good bikes to learn on, but neither would be "best". If you already know how to ride and ride well, then upgrade to a 600.

Grey import bikes are invariably shitboxes.

You're not fooling anyone, and a 250cc four is still gutless even if it looks like a sportsbike, just get something reliable, cheap to maintain and run, and delivered new here.

When you're off your Ls/Ps buy something you want to pose on then.

I'm actually on my l's otherwise i would upgrade to a 600 or 900 i would love to. I'm just looking for something reliable not going to cost me alot on anything and there is a tone of parts to. I'm going to look at the new kawaski's apparently there's a 250 comming out next year for 7 grand.. I'm just looking for something to keep for my l's and p's and once i'm off them i will definatley be upgrading to something nice and fast. thanks for all your opinions guys

Actually Honda CBR 250 RRs (make sure its an RR) are quite a quick bike...used to own one and for what they are they go pretty darn quick. They are not a superbike or anything but will do 0-100 in about 4.5sec and can reach a little over 200kph...for a learner that is definitely quick enough....but if your off your restrictions, yes go a bigger bike....600s are great fun but if your planning to get a 1000 then skip the 600s and go straight for a 1000 and just be mindful of twisting the throttle too quick :D

I never had trouble with my CBR over about 3 years in terms of reliability and you can get fairly good nick ones between the 5-7k mark.

Cheers!

Gagz

Edited by R31 Gagz
Grey import bikes are invariably shitboxes.

You're not fooling anyone, and a 250cc four is still gutless even if it looks like a sportsbike, just get something reliable, cheap to maintain and run, and delivered new here.

When you're off your Ls/Ps buy something you want to pose on then.

I wouldnt say that. If you think a 250cc four cylinder is gutless you obviously havent ridden a suzuki zzr...

But something cheap to run and maintain would be something like a honda cb250 or 125. Both will last for a very long time of looked after. The thing to watch out for is the amount of k's on the bike. i would not but a bike that has in excess of 20,000kms. The typical lifespan of a 250cc is around 40,000kms. just keep that in mind when your looking for one. I had a yzf250, fantastic bike! There is nothing like a light bike even though it small for the twisties! :)

goodluck finding a bike dude

My pick would be the VTR, lovely bike to ride, as reliable as all getout and popular enough to get parts for anywhere. It will be plenty quick enough for you as well. Expecting to do over 200kph regularly on any 250 kind of precludes reliability anyway. You are talking about an engine with 10% of the capacity of your RB....

don't get a CB250 or GN250 - they are so slow they are dangerous, you do need a BIT of pick up after all :)

Best advice i can give, is join your local MRA and do a few ride days with them - even if you can ride a bike, you will be amazed at what these guys can teach you. I dropped almost 10 seconds off my lap times with 4 hours of hints and tips from them. :whistling:

I wouldnt say that. If you think a 250cc four cylinder is gutless you obviously havent ridden a suzuki zzr...

WTF is a suzuki ZZR?

I've ridden a Kawasaki ZZ-R250 which is a twin, and actually go pretty good for a 250...And a suzuki across which is a four with two carbs, and which could be dragged by pedestrians...

I wouldnt say that. If you think a 250cc four cylinder is gutless you obviously havent ridden a suzuki zzr...

They all seem as slow as each other from the perspective of someone who has never ridden one. They are not made for people 6'5" tall! I can't believe they do 0-100 in the 4's. On the plus side they don't use much fuel. The savings you make there will pay for an engine rebuild every 2 years. I'm lucky to get 220km out of a tank on my Bandit.

WTF is a suzuki ZZR?

I've ridden a Kawasaki ZZ-R250 which is a twin, and actually go pretty good for a 250...And a suzuki across which is a four with two carbs, and which could be dragged by pedestrians...

Hey yeah, how stupid am I for not noticing that first? I should go back and edit my last post.

I'd be looking for a VTR250 :P i bought a 1999 11000km red one in may last year when I got my L's..great little bike to learn on! Very easy to ride and ultra reliable. I got off my P's in october this year but probably quite stupidly more I tink about it I bought a brand new CBR600RR in March this year, so yeh only a few months after getting my P's. I was lucky enough to not get any fines or being pulled over or even in an accident (since no insurance). I am definitely not recommending anyone jump the gun and get a bigger bike while still on restricted licence, but each to their own..

JG

I got a R6 as a first bike and its a good bike to learn on if the rider has self control and willing to keep the revs below 6k for a few months as below 6k its like riding a 250, but in your situation somthing like a cbf250 should be fine unless u are willing to wait for the new zx2r http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/detail.as...;content=photos

Actually Honda CBR 250 RRs (make sure its an RR) are quite a quick bike...used to own one and for what they are they go pretty darn quick. They are not a superbike or anything but will do 0-100 in about 4.5sec and can reach a little over 200kph...for a learner that is definitely quick enough....

i uesd to own rgv and bet every cbr 250RR i came across and i was about 120kgs back them and looked like a big fool on it lol,

4.5 i find hard to belive :P

600s are great fun but if your planning to get a 1000 then skip the 600s and go straight for a 1000 and just be mindful of twisting the throttle too quick :P

I have seen 3 guys come off a 1000 just given it to much 1 of my mates sneezed and yeh off he came

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...