Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm waiting for the Ninja 250R this February to see if it will be big enough for me (I'm 6'2") If not, I might go a Hyosung as they are the only big 250 on the market. I like the Honda VTR250, but they are too small and look kinda gay, plus expensive (not that the Kwaka isn't).

I wouldnt buy a brand new Kawazaki, you'll be upgrading 12 months and by then you'll prob already be bored with it anyway.

Have a look at the Yamaha FZR250 (fastest legal 4 cyl) or better still if you live in Vic, an Aprillia RS250 (Fatest legal 2 stroke 250).

Then again im almost reay to upgrade to a 600 so you can buy my Cagiva Mito (Ducatti 996 Styling :thumbsup:)

does RR mean its a jap spec?

and can you ride a rgv250 on your L's?

kinda getting interested.

Nope, u cant ride RGV's on your L's in nsw. its banned of the list :thumbsup:

and no, the difference between a CBR250R(MC19) and a CBR250RR(MC22) is that the rr has dual front discs, a bit more rev range, has a slightly different fairing design and is newer...MC19 was built till '89 and since '90 its a MC20.

Nope, u cant ride RGV's on your L's in nsw. its banned of the list :D

and no, the difference between a CBR250R(MC19) and a CBR250RR(MC22) is that the rr has dual front discs, a bit more rev range, has a slightly different fairing design and is newer...MC19 was built till '89 and since '90 its a MC20.

Plus a more aggressive riding position. You lean more over the tank whereas the single R is a little bit more relaxed. They are pretty much the same in terms of performance...and definitely not worth the extra $2k premium that an RR commands over a single R. Just noobie L platers pay big bucks for them for some reason.

Buy a 2 stroke like an Aprillia RS250 if you enjoy smelling my petrol and rebuilding engines. They go hard and look nice but its not exactly trouble free motoring. Plus they sound bad.

Whatever you buy, just remember that you won't be keeping it for long. It's for learning on, getting the feel of riding two wheels...getting decent lean angles and powering on...which lines should be taken through what corners. When you upgrade to maybe a 600 basically you need to learn how to use the throttle and front brakes again.

Actually Honda CBR 250 RRs (make sure its an RR) are quite a quick bike...used to own one and for what they are they go pretty darn quick. They are not a superbike or anything but will do 0-100 in about 4.5sec and can reach a little over 200kph...for a learner that is definitely quick enough....but if your off your restrictions, yes go a bigger bike....600s are great fun but if your planning to get a 1000 then skip the 600s and go straight for a 1000 and just be mindful of twisting the throttle too quick wink.gif

I never had trouble with my CBR over about 3 years in terms of reliability and you can get fairly good nick ones between the 5-7k mark.

Cheers!

Gagz

I find a 0-100 in 4.5 hard to believe...5-6 sec maybe if you launch at 17000rpm...top speed of 200+? Are you kidding. Unless you weigh around 30kgs and do this indoors...I could only top out around 170...and that was stretching it. And skipping to 1000 with limited experience is stupid, plus the insurance would give you a heart attack.

Edited by JBird
  • 2 weeks later...
I find a 0-100 in 4.5 hard to believe...5-6 sec maybe if you launch at 17000rpm...top speed of 200+? Are you kidding. Unless you weigh around 30kgs and do this indoors...I could only top out around 170...and that was stretching it. And skipping to 1000 with limited experience is stupid, plus the insurance would give you a heart attack.

I read on a factory spec sheet somewhere a time of 0-100kmph in 4.2sec for the cbr 250 rr, I was 80kgs at the time and I know it was pretty quick to get up and go....and I know for certain I reached 200, my speedo needle used to wobble at high speeds so I had a mate on his fireblade (cbr954) ride beside me and he confirmed 200kmph as he matched my speed.

I know there are a lot of shit cbr's out there, I had proof when selling mine as so many people would come and take it for a test ride and comment on how 5 others they had test ridden were buckets of crap compared to mine.

And yes I wouldn't recommend going straight to a 1000, a friend of my father got his full license and with basically no experience decided to purchase and ride a 1000 from Melbourne back to his home in QLD by himself....now his daily transport is a wheelchair as a quadriplegic. But I know what it like to get your heart set on something so if you do get a 1000, just be bloody careful and don't go reefing on that throttle :(

Cheers!

Gagz

I would recommend getting the cibby make sure its an RR ride your arse off ride as much as you can and ride it to its limits and get really really good while you can afford to fuel the bloody thing then buy a 600 - 1000 2-3 years old Personal pref being the liter bikes

if you dont bin that, which you shouldnt cause you got a good basis starting out with the 250 look to keep the second handy for a bit mabye a year then go new

nothing beats having a brand spanker! my little bro took delivery of his new 2008 gixxer thou yesterday so nice to have one you can break in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...