Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppl!

merry christmas and a happy new year to all!!! :D

i am planning to powder coat my set of rims. and the powder coater says i need to remove the sticker myself.

do u know how to get them out without damaging them??

if anything goes wrong i might need a new sticker - can i get this anywhere?

its a work emotion rim n as usual they have the sticker on the spoke and on the inner rim (offset and size etc)

could any one guide me....

thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198389-removing-rims-sticker/
Share on other sites

Only thing I can think of doing to help not damage the sticker is to use some sort of heat gun or hair dryer to 'melt' the glue behind it. Then slowly peal it off. I'm assuming that if the sticker is old, it'll crack and fall into pieces which you can't really do anything about it.

Edit: Merry Christmas and have a happy new year to you too!

Edited by adam-__-

Hmm... nope, not likely you'll be able to get a sticker off & save it.

Probably better to take a rim down to your local sticker guy & get him to make some up for you before you peel them off.

Take some pics of the wheels as they are now too, just in case you want to sell them in the future, you can show they are genuine Work & not just no name wheels with stickers that look the same.

You'll pretty much have to live without the size/offset sticker on the inside (unless you're keen enough to get them made too), just take a photo or write all the info down for future referance.

Wax & Grease Remover (from most auto shops) on a rag will do the trick, fairly wet, & let it sit on the sticker for a minute to soften it up... might need a little scrape with a razor blade too (definatley not 'save-able' this way) .

Cant you just cover it during powdercoat then remove the cover afterwards?

Nope, powdercoating requires the item to be baked at 250 degrees (or 300 or something, its pretty hot anyway).

The wheels (or whatever) get chemically cleaned then spayed with a powdered pigment, (actually looks like a bag full of coloured powder, sprayed through a special electrostatic gun which makes it wrap around into all the little edges & corners)

then put into an oven to bake. This 'melts' the powder together to form the end coating.

Try to find a good recommended powdercoater that does wheels too. Some of the fence/steel powdercoat guys are be pretty rough.

thanks guys!

tats wast the guy said... cant leave it on n remove it later. need to be soaked in chemicals n baked.... so basically = dead stickers.

the rims are brand new never been used b4.... couldnt find one in black so gotta powder coat it... i will tryi to slowly peel it off with a hair dryer first, see if tat could work.... if not too bad....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
×
×
  • Create New...