Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have been on the receiving end of a Bee*R limiter in the workshop.. 26 in a gts4, was standing on the back left of the car talking to someone when I heard the engine start to rev.. glanced at the exhaust pipe then BANG BANG BANG it hit the Bee*R limiter.. my left ear was ringing for several hours after :)

haha sorry bubba should have warned u b4 we did it

  • 4 weeks later...

hmmm i got a r32 gtst stock turbo was gonna buy the bee*r rev limiter lucky i read this thread... so whats the best way to get the backfire/flames? would it be for me to get a PFC and then get it tuned to do it? is it hard to revert it back to normal?

i got a few noobs questions lol,

my car frequently pops between gear changes and when decelerating, i got a atmo bov too, does that mean flames coming out every time it pops? ;) coz as u can guess i cant see my exhaust while im driving lol

and popping a lot doesnt mean misfire right...??

i got a few noobs questions lol,

my car frequently pops between gear changes and when decelerating, i got a atmo bov too, does that mean flames coming out every time it pops? :D coz as u can guess i cant see my exhaust while im driving lol

and popping a lot doesnt mean misfire right...??

I was told it isn't flames or missfire its just excess fuel being dumped in the exhaust and hence the pops. correct me if i'm wrong though.

i used to get heaps of pops on decel with the bov open about 30% but as soon as i got a pfc in it and tuned it stopped straight away or if i turned it to fully plumback.

Edited by Onthehunt

Apparently I get flames when it's more of a dull "whop" rather than the big "bangs", hence my theory is thus:

A BANG is the unburnt fuel igniting at the front of the exhaust and the flame/whop is the unburnt fuel making its' way to the muffler before it ignites.

</end-theory>

  • 3 weeks later...

the flaim throwing kits that work with a switch and cupple of sparks in the exohst throw nice flaims for a long time without too much noise WOOOSH sound n they usualy throw flaims out far too.. iv installed one on a friends WRX and it looked mad how ever it did kill his starter motor with time..

Bee R will reduce the life of your turbo so its not realy worth that lil bangs that it gives out. or use a computer that has anti lag.

imho if you got no cat usualy ull get a lil bang anyways when u back off, no need for pushing it n runing nice parts n paint..

Edited by drmafia

U want flames..??? get a Flame Thrower.. EZYYYY but i think they r Gay.. I rather c someon driving hard n flames come cuz of Pure Power...

Enuff Said hehe :-)

Boooyaaaahhh Peace

-SeS

Edited by Black_CSR
  • 1 month later...

i get popping sound too from my exhaust ... its just a simple lousy twin pipe .. plus im driving a non turbo skyline .. could it be the fuel pump or something which is not working properly .. i really dont expect a very stock non turbo skyline to make popping sounds ..

Flames and popping sounds and extremely powerful cars don't always go hand in hand. If your NA is running a bit rich, you will have excess fuel in the exhaust. Excess fuel + hot exhaust = potential for flamage :D

Usually the cat will catch most of the unburnt fuel, but if there is no cat, no reason why you won't get flames for the reasons above. Also, popping sound is normally infront of the cat, ie no flames. Flames are usually more of a whooshing sound :thumbsup:

  • 1 month later...

yeah mine pops massive flames over 4000-4500rpm changes... the slower i change gear the bigger the flame lol... i think the car is just running rich cause i have a 3" cat ive got some nice vidz of it, post up when i can.

i knew mine blue flames when changing gear but i went on the performance car cruse on Friday night and some of the guys (Ivan and friends) said it was blowing a 2 Foot flame continuously when i opened it up.

3.5"exhaust

11Psi

120mm THICK! drag front mount

spitfire coilpacks

iridum plugs

= big ass flames when hammering and very hot rear bumper!

might have something to do with the 10-1 a/f ratio. lol

cheers!

hey all how can u get ur car to throw flames from the exhaust? yesterday mournin i was drivin up the freeway and a white r33 with number plates strich9 went past and when changed gear threw out a decent flame from the exhuast, how can u get your car to do it or is it something that just happens with the unburnt fuel when u back off?

Flame thrower kit!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...