Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All in all. It's been a bit of a mixed bag.

Installation wasn't too easy. I had to grind down the yolks (spelling? - the fatter washer/spacers between the exhaust flange and the washers) so as to accommodate for the welds on the piping as the yolks did not sit flat. I had to do this because it would of bent the studs, possibly snapped them and the headers would not of sealed properly or evenly with the head and gasket.

**note** to those who did it themselves.. I hope you guys progressively tightened the nuts and did it in proper order

Then I had to weld a flange and a connector pipe from the exhaust manifold to the cat. Simple and Cheap. But now it scrapes everywhere.

As a positive, it definately improved the engine flow! The engine is much happier now being at lower RPM and also rev's out MUCH easier..

This being said.. My exhaust note has lost alot growl.. is quiter.. and the rasp has now returned..

Thats my pros and cons..

Im in two minds about the job that coby did..

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

sorry to hear about your experience Cris. anyone else have this issue??? please let me know!! out of everyone getting headers this is the first negative report i've received. i'd like to know if this was a once off shabby weld or what.

did you use the old (stock) head studs, washers, and nuts?

not sure about your flange setup, do the headers angle down too steeply? or is the flange too big?

could possibly be your engine mounts? with having the RB25 in the R32.

in regards to the rasp/growl issue, did you previously have the stock mild steel headers? i did notice that the heavier metals in exhaust components to muffle it down a fair bit.

better yet, before you bolt the intake back together take a picture of your welds and the bolt clearance. i'll have a few words with partsco and coby.

eug

well i had mine done by kirmit

and he said that when installing mine he almost killed himself because they were a pain in the ass..

he had to replace all my top studs with bolts and put spacers in to clear the welds

he also bent the extractors up because they angled down a lot

and they weren't long enough so a connector pipe had to be welded on so they would reach the cat.

it took him, who does this sort of thing everyday, around 4 or 5 hours to do just my extractors.

so apparently not the best design

that being said they do flow a lot better and are lighter than the stock headers.

they work but its a pain to get them on apparently.

wow, coby are getting lazy. mine was in and out in 2-3 hours.

in regards to joining to the cat, remember the stock cat is much longer than aftermarket ones.

get me some pictures and i'll make sure partsco/coby knows about it. after organizing 4 group buys i would have thought they'd treat us better each time.

I have diagnosed the problem..

because this engine should fit 32's and 33's they extended the piping so as it has the extra length to fit in a 33. Put it in a 32.. and it hangs too low..

My car isn't amazingly low.. street legal 100mm all round.. but just something to be warey of..

And the grinding of the yolk was a bit of a bitch.. but nothing amazingly difficult..

All in all.. Im quite happy with it though.. its good to feel an engine breathing and farting well..

  • 4 weeks later...

Finally...gotten round to booking in to get exhuast n extractors put in...had extractors sitting arounf collecting dust so time to make good use of them =].

Hope saturday everything will be installed..

i'll keep updated and get some pics maybe vid/sound file when its done =] =]

Honestly boys and girls.. do the mods yourself..

Its all abut the late nights you spend under your car..

You learn things ten-fold!

and I garantee you they wont do as good of a job as you would..

Grinding down spaers is a biatch.. but if thats what it takes to get the job done right.. you wont care..

thats what I think so anyways.. built not baught..

i too have done something similar

i have taken my dash cluster out 6 times now and have to do it again

nothing teaches you more then taking you car apart

i painted my rocker covers on the weekend and taking my engine apart was a big learning experience

post-41103-1205497188_thumb.jpg

hEY got extractors and exhuast done today....hottest day ever though. didnt end up heat wrapping or coating the extractors might end up doing it later on. i asked for a xforce muffler..guy gave me some titanium exhaust looks bigga and better.so im not complaining. nice loud and throaty. Might need to drive around with the silencer on ..although its not entirely bad droaning even at cruising.

I went to Dandy Exhausts. Very friendly and did good job.

Just a note though. Usually when its a hot day like this car doesnt always perform greatly. But noticed slight increase in acceleration. Plus driving around with the air con on doesnt help i guess.

I'll try and get a vid file soon when is cool enough to be outside.

..oh yea checked the engine bay..saw the black paint starting to burn off the extractors i think.

  • 3 weeks later...
i too have done something similar

i have taken my dash cluster out 6 times now and have to do it again

nothing teaches you more then taking you car apart

i painted my rocker covers on the weekend and taking my engine apart was a big learning experience

post-41103-1205497188_thumb.jpg

dude that looks hot what colour did u use?

cheers mate,

i went into super cheap auto and bought heat proof primer, this heat resistant metallic paint (red) they are in grey cans with shiny lids that are hard to miss and then i put on a few coats of clear :D

you have to prep the surface really well with sanding and cleaning but it comes up nice

be prepared to sacrifice an entire weekend though

hiya guys,

not been on fer a wee while as im currently in the desert doing a bit of "agressive camping" for uk plc. ive five interested parties for a group buy of these in UK, and would apreciate any and all feedback on the changes in power and torque that youve gotten since fitting. also info what systems people have fixed onto these pipes would be good. im looking at 2.5inch diameter ...as my heads been ported (rb25de) ...so any feedback would be great, good or other wise.

thanks

si

hiya guys,

not been on fer a wee while as im currently in the desert doing a bit of "agressive camping" for uk plc. ive five interested parties for a group buy of these in UK, and would apreciate any and all feedback on the changes in power and torque that youve gotten since fitting. also info what systems people have fixed onto these pipes would be good. im looking at 2.5inch diameter ...as my heads been ported (rb25de) ...so any feedback would be great, good or other wise.

thanks

si

Hey when i got my headers put in i got the whole works done =]

frm headers to exhuast everything new..

titanium exhaust

hotdog resonator

new hi flow cat

2.5 inch piping

coby headers/extractors.

since then i noticed slight increase in power not a whole lot though. mainly accel so low-mid range.

i didnt coat the headers or put heat wrap on it...i might eventually later on.

thinking about changing air panel filter and putting on a apexi pod if i can be bothered.

There was a guy named Greg who increased 25kw i believe with his exhaust/extractors/ pod i think.

post-38129-1207454225_thumb.jpg

Edited by blk_sz
  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys just a few quick questions.

whats the stock piping size for stock extractors? rb25de,

also, does it matter if your extractor's outlet is 2'' or 2.5''?. i.e, whats the difference between coby d12 2'' and 2.5''?

would 2.5'' coby d12s put out more power assuming its bigger??

last thing!, how hot can the extractors get??, im buying some heat wrap but not sure which specifications i need, i.e, temperature

Edited by OoskylineoO

well basically the 2.5 inch outlet will have better flow

they dont increase your "power" but they do make the car more resposive and allows it to rev quicker

i heat wrapped mine and after i have been driving at operating temperate for say half an hour

then stop and touch the extractors, they arnt as hot as you would imagine

could leave your finger there for a second or 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
×
×
  • Create New...