Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Evening all

thinking of heading up to a drift night at Archerfield or QR in my N/A R33 is it worth taking a non-turbo up there are there many haters?

And if i were to go how much would a day/night cost me (never been B4) prob need tyres aswell

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/
Share on other sites

Hey mate..

is it a practice day?.. or a competition?

If its a competition then id stay clear if you havent drifted before.. If its a practice.. then go for it!.. Its well worth the $100 - $160 (depending on who and where the track day is with)!!! Its awesome amount of fun!..

There isnt any NA hate when it comes to drifting.. you can drift an NA and I have seen people do it just as.. if not better in an NA than some turbos!..

If its your first time drifting I wouldnt worrie too much about tyres.. new kids usually dont end up in blisteringly long smokey drifts on the first drift event.. but then again.. you could be a quick learner.. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/#findComment-3549623
Share on other sites

Thx for that mate

It would definetely be a practice day which track would u recommend for a learner?

Do u need to bring ur own petrol in case u run out?

Just need to know all the little things even if they seem stupid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/#findComment-3549844
Share on other sites

Seeing as your in QLD.. and Im in NSW.. I got no clue on tracks up there mate.. sorry..

Have a look at Initial Dirft Australia.. or Aus drift.. or a drifing forum where you can find details where drift specific events are held in your area..

Yes.. petrol is a good idea as you will be thrashing your car all day.. similarly.. poeple can and do go a little crazy on the weight saving factor at track events and completely strip their cars interior.. its not necessery though..

Tools are a good idea if something roots itself.. and fluids.. fluids are a good idea.. coolant.. brake fluid.. oil.. water..

This is a typical preparation for a circuit trackday.. so its a little more hardcore than a first drift event.. really.. just a very basic box is needed with a couple of essentials..

Why not have a look as a specator before you do your drift day?.. have a walk through the pits and see what others bring.. (do bear in mind poeple bring hardcore back up as there are quite skilled drifters that acctualy need the support).. but i think you'll be fine for a first timer with the very basic things..

Edited by GTS4WD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/#findComment-3550122
Share on other sites

Who cares what you're driving, whether its NA or FI? As long as you're out there enjoying the sport like everyone else, that's all that should matter.

People who reckon that drifting is an FI-only sport can go get f**ked, and have a chat with Katsuhiro Ueo. Tsuchiya's hachi is NA as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/#findComment-3551036
Share on other sites

Who cares what you're driving, whether its NA or FI? As long as you're out there enjoying the sport like everyone else, that's all that should matter.

People who reckon that drifting is an FI-only sport can go get f**ked, and have a chat with Katsuhiro Ueo. Tsuchiya's hachi is NA as well.

An N/A track spec hachi that weighs 700-800kg~ is a little different than a stock N/A R33 in street trim.

Weld the standard diff as a start, and if you can afford it buy some adjustable coilovers (or swaybars.. or both) and castor arms -

Also look at running some skinny tyres on the rear to make it easier to break traction.

You'll have to be alot more aggressive with your car and the clutch/handbrake to make it slide and keep it going, but most importantly have fun and don't worry about what other people think, more often than not they'll be more than happy to lend some advice :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/#findComment-3551139
Share on other sites

An N/A track spec hachi that weighs 700-800kg~ is a little different than a stock N/A R33 in street trim

You're not getting my point.

homedog56 was wondering if it was worth taking his NA car to drifting or there'd be too many "haters". I was pointing out that there are plenty of famous NA drifters out there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/#findComment-3551166
Share on other sites

If you are worried about your first time out there on the track - maybe try and find some skid pan days first of all?

Skid pan would be all wet and you really do get to learn alot about the car, how it slides, how it behaves etc and theres plenty of room if you have a "spin"!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/#findComment-3552224
Share on other sites

yeah try a skid pan day first, learn how your car handles etc.

then next you can step up to a track day. even better if the track day is a wet day or when its raining, makes it abit easier for a NA to slide.

you can pretty much drift anything whether it be NA or FI.

its just how much balls you got.

in an NA, you gotta full shift the weight to get it to kick out unlike FI you just tap the throttle.

unless your NA is some torquey mofo :P

im yet to go out on my first track day as my car isnt really setup for it yet but hopefully within 4-6 monthts it will have the basic suspension components to get its as$ out on the track and try and do some skids..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/#findComment-3560230
Share on other sites

yer im pretty keen to hit up a day and watch first anyway

wen is the next one on

at either track?

and im gettin a exedy heavy duty clutch intsalled on monday

just wanting to know some ppls thoughts and how they hold up under drifting conditions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198972-drift-day/#findComment-3562969
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...