Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can't go too far with washers, I spaced the bonnet on my 32 with 10mm steel spacers that I had my fitter mate make up (needed to get longer bolts too.. I just went to a local fastener place) and it opens fine.. although it is a little springloaded due to touching the timing belt cover :)

hmmm do i have to undo the fender ? since like the nuts that hold the bonnet thingy is under the fender well half way under the fender :) hmmm and would i also have to get longer bolts?

Cheers

Chi

Ha ha, it already says in this thread that you need longer bolts. Anyways just try it and see if your temps are lower. Worth a go. Post up any results if you do it, would be interesting to know how well it works.

Well took these pics just then.

Probably used about 20 washers, 2 longer bolts for the rear with 2 washers so that the end of the bolt wont hit the bonnet denting it.

I dont think this makes much of a difference in cooling down the engine bay. unsure if heat even escapes from there as there is a seal between bonnet and that plastic panel.

img0307hv7.th.jpg

img0305yk4.th.jpg

i read from the force inductions forum that like apparently it does lower the temps cause the air escapes easier or something...i also saw the Just Jap R31 drift car with its bonnet raised real high too :) hmmm ill givet his a go tomorow hahah soooo wheres a place i can find some bolts that are a bit longer ?

Cheers

Chi

Could try, bunnings, repco, autoone, supercheap (apparently having up to 60% off tomorrow), autopro.

Hmm depends how high you want i guess.. well i raised mine and had troubles with the bonnet latch, so i had to put spacers (1cm nuts) behind the raidator support where those two 12mm bolts are.

I got my bolts from a Fastener mob in Welshpool, pulled up, popped my bonnet, removed one bolt, went inside and asked for something to match but 10mm longer.

I had started out with washers but when I wanted to bump it up to 10mm I had my mate make up a couple of 25x10FB spacers with appropriate holes, if I could find my camera!! I'd take some photos :)

I doubt it.

Go Rally car style and cut a giant hole in your bonnet then some thermo fans on the front of your radiator and duct it through. Now THAT will have some cooling effect. But Effort++

What's the main reason for wanting to cool under bonnet temperatures anyway dude?

yeah i think im going to get a Z-tune style bonnet lunjiaow :banana: but for a temporary fix ill just do teh washer :blush: hahah, yeah strich9 the main reason i want to cool my car down is that yesterday i went to the car wash doing normal driving and i hit like 90 degrees....max 94 degrees...so i was abit like WTF...hence why i want to do something to cool it down :) mmm i think ill get some thermo's and a Ztune bonnet perhaps that'd work good :) cheers for the help aye guys :)

Cheers

Chi

I did it for clearance.. RB30 and all :banana:

My engine temps never really get high except when you're doing burnouts in 43deg.. got to the top of the gauge twice today and a short trip down the road cooled her down again. I didn't lose a drop of coolant either while my mates xr8 emptied all of its coolant! stupid australian cars can't handle a burnout in australian conditions!

Also, I wouldn't have noticed any drop in water temps after raising the bonnet as it always sits at whatever the thermostat opens at.

I will however remove the rubber strip at the back and report back as to whether that + 10mm raise decreases under bonnet temps :blush:

Edited by bubba

hmmm so whats the max amount of washers or max MM i can go b4 i can't close my bonnet at all cause tomorow im going to go buy the stuff and rip that rear rubber seal off and see if it lowers temp :banana:

Cheers

Chi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...