Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

i have a leaking return hose on my power steering reservior so im going to need to remove all the fluid to chuck in a new one. My only problem is i have no idea how to drain / refill the power steering system and get rid of any air. Everything that comes up on a search has just said remove fluid in reservior with a syringe and then top up... but i need to fully empty my system. Surely it cant be that hard but neither the r33 engine manual or handbook that came with the car tells you anything useful.

help would be much appreciated

thanks

Camden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199101-bleeding-power-steering/
Share on other sites

to drain it, i usually unhook the return hose and run it into a container whilst engine is running, make sure not to turn off engine as soon as the fluid stops running consistently. No need to bleed it, the air will bubble up to the fluid tank, helped by turning the steering lock to lock a few times whilst running.

to drain it, i usually unhook the return hose and run it into a container whilst engine is running, make sure not to turn off engine as soon as the fluid stops running consistently. No need to bleed it, the air will bubble up to the fluid tank, helped by turning the steering lock to lock a few times whilst running.

So while the fluids drains out, you leave the engine running, until the fluid stops? I have the exact problem. And when you put new one in, dont worry about the air? So I just turn on the engine and turn the wheel to get the air out? Please help.

Edit;

I drained my fluid by undoing one of the pipes from the pump to the rack, at the rack and let it drain out (took quite a while). I wouldnt run the engine while draining the system, but maybe i'm just being paranoid.

For bleeding the workshop manual says something like;

-Top up the fluid

-With the engine off, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue turning back and forth until you stop seeing bubbles. Might as well lift the front wheels off the ground first to make it easy.

-Top up fluid if required

-start the motor, then repeat turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue until you stop seeing bubbles

Then your done. I did this today. My friend looked for bubbles during the last step, but didnt see any. The steering is fine.

  • Thanks 1

I did mine with the engine running without any issues. take off the hose, start the car and turn full lock left to right about 12 times and it should drain out easily.

then connect everything up, fill up the fluid. with the car on turn left to right and u will see it sucks in the fluid in, keep topping it up until full and bubbles gone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...