Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

i have a leaking return hose on my power steering reservior so im going to need to remove all the fluid to chuck in a new one. My only problem is i have no idea how to drain / refill the power steering system and get rid of any air. Everything that comes up on a search has just said remove fluid in reservior with a syringe and then top up... but i need to fully empty my system. Surely it cant be that hard but neither the r33 engine manual or handbook that came with the car tells you anything useful.

help would be much appreciated

thanks

Camden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199101-bleeding-power-steering/
Share on other sites

to drain it, i usually unhook the return hose and run it into a container whilst engine is running, make sure not to turn off engine as soon as the fluid stops running consistently. No need to bleed it, the air will bubble up to the fluid tank, helped by turning the steering lock to lock a few times whilst running.

to drain it, i usually unhook the return hose and run it into a container whilst engine is running, make sure not to turn off engine as soon as the fluid stops running consistently. No need to bleed it, the air will bubble up to the fluid tank, helped by turning the steering lock to lock a few times whilst running.

So while the fluids drains out, you leave the engine running, until the fluid stops? I have the exact problem. And when you put new one in, dont worry about the air? So I just turn on the engine and turn the wheel to get the air out? Please help.

Edit;

I drained my fluid by undoing one of the pipes from the pump to the rack, at the rack and let it drain out (took quite a while). I wouldnt run the engine while draining the system, but maybe i'm just being paranoid.

For bleeding the workshop manual says something like;

-Top up the fluid

-With the engine off, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue turning back and forth until you stop seeing bubbles. Might as well lift the front wheels off the ground first to make it easy.

-Top up fluid if required

-start the motor, then repeat turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue until you stop seeing bubbles

Then your done. I did this today. My friend looked for bubbles during the last step, but didnt see any. The steering is fine.

  • Thanks 1

I did mine with the engine running without any issues. take off the hose, start the car and turn full lock left to right about 12 times and it should drain out easily.

then connect everything up, fill up the fluid. with the car on turn left to right and u will see it sucks in the fluid in, keep topping it up until full and bubbles gone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...