Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my gtr have this twin ssq bov, is this how should it sound???? with the youtube

what rpm should i hear it?? because with mine, i can't hear mine with just reving the engine without a load, i can only hear it when driving the car with a load and with a high rpm like 6k to 7k..., could it be the adjustment of the bov springs???thnx

Mate, mine's the same... the one bad thing about a HKS SSQV is that it requires a lot of boost in order for it to sound good... I would need to have over 5K RPM's to have a nice sound and yes - this is exactly how it should sound. Mine sounds the same too... not exactly the toughest sound, but a very nice stylish sound. You can't adjust the HKS BOV - that's just that... perhaps run higher boost through it and see...

and why other have a loud sound even just reving the engine? they could have a upgrade turbo???am i right? have you tried adjusting the bov springs??? or this could affect performance when the springs are adjusted to soft?

Edited by andy95'R33GTR
Mate, mine's the same... the one bad thing about a HKS SSQV is that it requires a lot of boost in order for it to sound good... I would need to have over 5K RPM's to have a nice sound and yes - this is exactly how it should sound. Mine sounds the same too... not exactly the toughest sound, but a very nice stylish sound. You can't adjust the HKS BOV - that's just that... perhaps run higher boost through it and see...

Thats utter BS...i have fitted used SSQVs on many cars over the years from WRXs to Silvias to Skylines...and you do not need to run high boost to get them to vent properly...its all about adjusting the bov correctly...unless you have the new ones which can't be adjusted...in which case too bad...adjusted loosely...you can get them to vent with very low positive boost pressure...and they can still sound good...on my silvia and on my 32...with different ssqvs...i could still get the bov to vent and have it sound good just by free revving the engine in neutral...but obviously under load you get higher boost and its louder...

Andy95'33GTR...i have some across some SSQVs in the past that became slightly sticky due to excessive oil and dirt inside which in turn prevented them from opening and venting smoothly at low boost...it could be the case with yours...perhaps take it apart and give it a good clean...

on mine at say 1/2 throttle it will make a flutter sound similar to a rexi fluttering.

but when u get more boost through it and floor it its a clear crisp note.

mine never fluttered like that at idle man. sounds dodgy.

have u messed with the spring load. if so. put it back. leave it standard

on mine at say 1/2 throttle it will make a flutter sound similar to a rexi fluttering.

but when u get more boost through it and floor it its a clear crisp note.

mine never fluttered like that at idle man. sounds dodgy.

have u messed with the spring load. if so. put it back. leave it standard

i tried removing it before, and tried to push the valve with my thumbs. and really the springs are hard man...i think the settings of the springs are designed for high boost...ill try turning the adjustments later...by the way, my bov is located near the right tire...twin ssq hks bov...

i tried removing it before, and tried to push the valve with my thumbs. and really the springs are hard man...i think the settings of the springs are designed for high boost...ill try turning the adjustments later...by the way, my bov is located near the right tire...twin ssq hks bov...

naaaah....i tried turning the adjustments of the bov, still thesame...., i check the small vaccum hose of the bov, and yes, i can feel the vaccum of the hose,i tried to push the valve, and little pressure comes out...what could be the cause???

Edited by andy95'R33GTR
Thats utter BS...i have fitted used SSQVs on many cars over the years from WRXs to Silvias to Skylines...and you do not need to run high boost to get them to vent properly...its all about adjusting the bov correctly...unless you have the new ones which can't be adjusted...in which case too bad...adjusted loosely...you can get them to vent with very low positive boost pressure...and they can still sound good...on my silvia and on my 32...with different ssqvs...i could still get the bov to vent and have it sound good just by free revving the engine in neutral...but obviously under load you get higher boost and its louder...

Andy95'33GTR...i have some across some SSQVs in the past that became slightly sticky due to excessive oil and dirt inside which in turn prevented them from opening and venting smoothly at low boost...it could be the case with yours...perhaps take it apart and give it a good clean...

Saying that I said was utterly bullshit obviously shows that you haven't taken a few things I had said into consideration... it depends on the amount of boost you're running - and yes, I'm referring to the latest non-adjustible HKS BOV.

He's talking about sound - you can't argue, the HKS BOVS aren't really made for sound and need more boost than 'other' bov's to get a nice fluttering sound - this is fact. :)

Saying that I said was utterly bullshit obviously shows that you haven't taken a few things I had said into consideration... it depends on the amount of boost you're running - and yes, I'm referring to the latest non-adjustible HKS BOV.

He's talking about sound - you can't argue, the HKS BOVS aren't really made for sound and need more boost than 'other' bov's to get a nice fluttering sound - this is fact. :D

HKS BOVs aren't really made for sound and need more boost to get a nice fluttering sound? that is a fact?

Have a look at that sentence and see if it makes sense...just goes to show how clueless you are on this matter...when you are not venting enough boost pressure...thats when you get that prolonged fluttering through the bov...when you are venting enough pressure the ssqv opens and gives a proper high pitched squeal...now....that is a fact...

But if you insist on this train of thought...then i shan't argue...its up to people to believe what they read...

Edited by limpus
Mate, mine's the same... the one bad thing about a HKS SSQV is that it requires a lot of boost in order for it to sound good... I would need to have over 5K RPM's to have a nice sound and yes - this is exactly how it should sound. Mine sounds the same too... not exactly the toughest sound, but a very nice stylish sound. You can't adjust the HKS BOV - that's just that... perhaps run higher boost through it and see...

mate u dont know wtf ur talking about, from the sounds of things ur BOV is just to tight, if u have to rev it out to 5k to get a sound u obviously have something wrong urself.

Thats utter BS...i have fitted used SSQVs on many cars over the years from WRXs to Silvias to Skylines...and you do not need to run high boost to get them to vent properly...its all about adjusting the bov correctly...unless you have the new ones which can't be adjusted...in which case too bad...adjusted loosely...you can get them to vent with very low positive boost pressure...and they can still sound good...on my silvia and on my 32...with different ssqvs...i could still get the bov to vent and have it sound good just by free revving the engine in neutral...but obviously under load you get higher boost and its louder...

Andy95'33GTR...i have some across some SSQVs in the past that became slightly sticky due to excessive oil and dirt inside which in turn prevented them from opening and venting smoothly at low boost...it could be the case with yours...perhaps take it apart and give it a good clean...

ur preetty much on the ball there buddy, hks bovs dont need high amounts of boost to give off the whistle. i ran one with standard boost with heaps of noise.

on mine at say 1/2 throttle it will make a flutter sound similar to a rexi fluttering.

but when u get more boost through it and floor it its a clear crisp note.

mine never fluttered like that at idle man. sounds dodgy.

have u messed with the spring load. if so. put it back. leave it standard

if its fluttering i to would put my money on the spring, its gotta be to tight, the reason why it flutters is because the bov is denying the air being vented, eventually when this builds up the bov is forced open.

i tried removing it before, and tried to push the valve with my thumbs. and really the springs are hard man...i think the settings of the springs are designed for high boost...ill try turning the adjustments later...by the way, my bov is located near the right tire...twin ssq hks bov...

was that youtube vid actually yours? i dont think its a very good idea running rubber turbing to a bov, basicly because under high boost it will shut close, which may explain the fluttering.

your bov should sound like this

the higher the boost the more high pitched, at low revs it even may give a woosh sound but thats about it. nothing like the above where its fluttering. if it flutters, its not adjusted right.

The fact is HKS BOV's are hot garbage and should be chucked in the trash asap. They are good for leaking and making pretty chirping noises, and that's about it.

the fact is u should stfu. expain why hks bovs are garbage? they are one of the few that hold high amounts of boost, ive heard of ppl running 30+pound and no leakage wat so ever. hks bovs are pull types so its pretty much physically impossible for it to leak under high boost or vacuum on idle.

HKS BOVs aren't really made for sound and need more boost to get a nice fluttering sound? that is a fact?

Have a look at that sentence and see if it makes sense...just goes to show how clueless you are on this matter...when you are not venting enough boost pressure...thats when you get that prolonged fluttering through the bov...when you are venting enough pressure the ssqv opens and gives a proper high pitched squeal...now....that is a fact...

your right as long as u keep in mind that the bov sping is tight. if its loose, it will still open on low pressure, it should even vent on idle if u have it lose enough.

But if you insist on this train of thought...then i shan't argue...its up to people to believe what they read...

andy maybe u have a fualty bov? i would test the springs again. try tightening it as much as you can, and lose as u can.

basicly the tighter u have it, the more flutter you'll have. loose the more vent.

as what iv been observing when the engine rev and i tried to push the valve of the bov, i have only a little pressure from the pipes...maybe theres a leaking around thats why my bov is not sounding right, the video is not mine...i just wonder why in that video the blow off sound so loud...and with mine i can't hear it when just reving in neutral, i can only hearing it when in high rpm and loading in the gears.....

hi mate, i have twin blitz blow off,s when i bought them secondhand and checked them they were seized. because of there location they suffer from water damage. take them of free them up and lightly oil them with wd40 or similar.also on top there is an adjustment screw. this is so you can adjust them to the boost your car runs, as every car runs different boost they have to be made to be adjustable. really need to be on boost when adjusting them like on the rollers etc.. bernie uk

Mine sounds exactly as the one in the first vid. Problem is when i undo the bolt for the spring it flutters more.

I would of thought this would loosen it hence making it vent easier instead of not letting it come out?

ps its just a copy ssqv but should work on same principle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...