Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26dett Rebuild For Up To 350kw Atw....whats Needed?

nsta

By nsta,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

IDO 11S R32 Collaborator

IDO 11S R32

Posted
Posted

WRXHOON is probably on the money, dont know about needing a new block though. Although if you want 100% reliability you probably should consider an N1 block or somthing similar. I have just about finished building mine and I have spent somewhere in the regin of 10k, and my motor already had forged internals. I am aiming for the same power figure as you. I have chosen a set of garret 2860R-5, I got these from CRD for $2500 I have a set of Trust cam gears, trust oil cooler, trust bar and plate intercooler, trust hard pipe kit, trust type R plumb back BOV, sard 720cc inj, nismo fuel pressure reg, apexi power fc dejetro, (using this cause mine has had a single throttlebody conversion), blitz duel solinoid boost controller. I have the car together now and it drives ok, (havnt fitted computer or boost controler or inj yet) so car in not tuned for this set up. But from what I can feel the turbos are really responsive and continue to make boost well into the upper end of the rev range. I will have it finished and tuned by mid jan so will let you know how it goes. I didnt pull mine apart and as far as I know it is still running a stock oil and water pump.

ANyway good luck with your build!

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

find an engine builder and ask all these questions with him. its useless asking everyone here caus all ull get is heaps of different replies with differing outocmes and ull still have nfi of what to get/do.

nsta Mentor

nsta

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for all the responses, helps alot.

Maybe 300rwkw would be a better goal for the time being, reliability being the key.

Head is off, what else could i do while its off that i can easily get access to and replace for my power goal - many seem to make this power on a stock rb26 without too much problems, but since im doing my gasket i don't mind strengthening while its off (whatever i can reach without opening the bottom end)

Engine already has forged pistons (wiseco), and N1 oil pump, everything else seems stock, im getting a new gasket fitted and arp headstuds.... and changing turbos to steel gt-ss, but need to know what supporting mods will need to be fitted for reliability....internals also if easily accessible when head is off.

thanks:)

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I have seen plenty cracked with less power than that, of course some won't.

I concur.

There have been a very good number i know about also.

Many factors that contribute to that however. Most application and spec of the car that the build itself.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
I concur.

There have been a very good number i know about also.

Many factors that contribute to that however. Most application and spec of the car that the build itself.

most ive seen can be traced back to the build more so than the block itself...... at 350kw it should last a long time... but push it for a long time at say 380-400+ then i would be nervous. Both blitz and trust set their limits on the std block at just shy of 400 when i asked them many moons ago..

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

again, depends on setup.

There is a lot to do with it, not just the motor build itself (some aren't built, some are)

suspension/traction/purpose play as much a factor as anything else

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...