Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WRXHOON is probably on the money, dont know about needing a new block though. Although if you want 100% reliability you probably should consider an N1 block or somthing similar. I have just about finished building mine and I have spent somewhere in the regin of 10k, and my motor already had forged internals. I am aiming for the same power figure as you. I have chosen a set of garret 2860R-5, I got these from CRD for $2500 I have a set of Trust cam gears, trust oil cooler, trust bar and plate intercooler, trust hard pipe kit, trust type R plumb back BOV, sard 720cc inj, nismo fuel pressure reg, apexi power fc dejetro, (using this cause mine has had a single throttlebody conversion), blitz duel solinoid boost controller. I have the car together now and it drives ok, (havnt fitted computer or boost controler or inj yet) so car in not tuned for this set up. But from what I can feel the turbos are really responsive and continue to make boost well into the upper end of the rev range. I will have it finished and tuned by mid jan so will let you know how it goes. I didnt pull mine apart and as far as I know it is still running a stock oil and water pump.

ANyway good luck with your build!

find an engine builder and ask all these questions with him. its useless asking everyone here caus all ull get is heaps of different replies with differing outocmes and ull still have nfi of what to get/do.

thanks for all the responses, helps alot.

Maybe 300rwkw would be a better goal for the time being, reliability being the key.

Head is off, what else could i do while its off that i can easily get access to and replace for my power goal - many seem to make this power on a stock rb26 without too much problems, but since im doing my gasket i don't mind strengthening while its off (whatever i can reach without opening the bottom end)

Engine already has forged pistons (wiseco), and N1 oil pump, everything else seems stock, im getting a new gasket fitted and arp headstuds.... and changing turbos to steel gt-ss, but need to know what supporting mods will need to be fitted for reliability....internals also if easily accessible when head is off.

thanks:)

I have seen plenty cracked with less power than that, of course some won't.

I concur.

There have been a very good number i know about also.

Many factors that contribute to that however. Most application and spec of the car that the build itself.

I concur.

There have been a very good number i know about also.

Many factors that contribute to that however. Most application and spec of the car that the build itself.

most ive seen can be traced back to the build more so than the block itself...... at 350kw it should last a long time... but push it for a long time at say 380-400+ then i would be nervous. Both blitz and trust set their limits on the std block at just shy of 400 when i asked them many moons ago..

again, depends on setup.

There is a lot to do with it, not just the motor build itself (some aren't built, some are)

suspension/traction/purpose play as much a factor as anything else

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...