Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Low end increases? Keep your stock cams then.

For mid-range increases, then 264 degree cams are the go.

The reason people talk about TOMEI poncams is because they are a direct fit (~9.1mm lift).

The HKS cams which are a direct fit are only 8.4mm lift, so most people just go for the TOMEI cams.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553570
Share on other sites

If you want to focus on low-mid range power i would try the new Tomei "Type R" poncams for GTR. I think they are around 252 duration, and very effective for low-mid range. Cam gears will also help bring boost/powerband earlier. I wouldnt do cams without out the wheels. I have Tomei type B poncams in mine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553593
Share on other sites

The HKS cams dont have enough lift in my opinion. You would get better results with the Tomei's. Better to spend the money right the first time. I think its been proven many times that Tomei Poncams are the best cam solution for GTR. They run the most lift of all the "drop-in" type cams which i think is important when choosing cams. More lift equals more air to breathe.

If you just wanna shift your powerband earlier, get a set of cam wheels fitted and dialled in. This will bring power on earlier, but at the expense of top end power dropping off earlier.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553602
Share on other sites

The HKS cams dont have enough lift in my opinion. You would get better results with the Tomei's. Better to spend the money right the first time. I think its been proven many times that Tomei Poncams are the best cam solution for GTR. They run the most lift of all the "drop-in" type cams which i think is important when choosing cams. More lift equals more air to breathe.

If you just wanna shift your powerband earlier, get a set of cam wheels fitted and dialled in. This will bring power on earlier, but at the expense of top end power dropping off earlier.

so keep the standered cams and get some cam wheels?

but surely HKS is still better than standered?

Cos i doubt ill ever spend 1000 on poncams

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553606
Share on other sites

so keep the standered cams and get some cam wheels?

but surely HKS is still better than standered?

Cos i doubt ill ever spend 1000 on poncams

Yeah, HKS would be better than standard of course. But the Tomei's even better :D ..Tomei's would give a greater peak power/torque throughout the rev-range compared to a similar duration HKS cam i think. (Which is the reason most do a cam upgrade)

What are the specs of the HKS cams you were looking at? Durations/lift specs?

Think about what your end result/goal of your car is, and whats gonna work better for you in the long run. If your on a tight budget, then there may be other areas of your car you can upgrade and get better value for $$$ per KW

Someone on the forum may have used the same HKS cams in their car, hopefully they will find this post and give an opinion from experience

Edited by Blue_GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553614
Share on other sites

HKS DURALUMIN+ Ni PLATING cam gears. item number are.. 22004-AN002 RB exhaust, 22004-AN002 RB intake

Thats all i know about them and ive tried searching cant find anything... hmmmm can anyone shed some light on them??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553618
Share on other sites

its just i can get a set of HKS cheap lik 499 new

Brand new Intake & Exhaust side HKS cams for $499? I don't think so.

For your application the Tomei Type B Poncams are the best choice.

The Tomei Type B package that includes Tomei Duralumin cam gears is a very good option

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553652
Share on other sites

We don't run any cams in RB26's without valve spring upgrades. The standard valve seat pressure is abismal, so the rule of thumb steps we use are;

Up to 9 mm lift = shim the standard valve springs

9 mm to 10 mm = Performance Springs, best value for money and shimmable to achieve the seat pressure desired

Over 10 mm = Jun valve springs, simply the best. Keep in mind the MINOR releaving of the head to clear the cam lobes (not a biggy, but necessary)

All of the above can be accomplished without removing the cylinder head ie; done it situ in the engine bay.

You want more low down performance, TURN UP THE BOOST, nothing else works as well and is that simple.

Happy New Year

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553657
Share on other sites

Brand new Intake & Exhaust side HKS cams for $499? I don't think so.

For your application the Tomei Type B Poncams are the best choice.

The Tomei Type B package that includes Tomei Duralumin cam gears is a very good option

on its from a mate whos not using them now.

let me guess oncams over a grand?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553663
Share on other sites

We don't run any cams in RB26's without valve spring upgrades. The standard valve seat pressure is abismal, so the rule of thumb steps we use are;

Up to 9 mm lift = shim the standard valve springs

9 mm to 10 mm = Performance Springs, best value for money and shimmable to achieve the seat pressure desired

Over 10 mm = Jun valve springs, simply the best. Keep in mind the MINOR releaving of the head to clear the cam lobes (not a biggy, but necessary)

All of the above can be accomplished without removing the cylinder head ie; done it situ in the engine bay.

You want more low down performance, TURN UP THE BOOST, nothing else works as well and is that simple.

Happy New Year

Gary

cheers for that...

you wouldnt know the specs of the above mentioned HKS cams?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553666
Share on other sites

Dont Forget the new GREDDY easy cams, direct fit, supplied as a matched pair with all the centreline checked so that they (in most cases dont need dialing in) , cheap and all have new profiles ground off a brand new machine. 256 9.1mm lift or 264 9.1mm lift available.

http://www.trust-power.com/spec_swf/05engi...mshaft_easy.swf

kenma1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553678
Share on other sites

If your on a tight budget, then there may be other areas of your car you can upgrade and get better value for $$$ per KW

I am on a tightish budget...

my cars stockish.. has a trust intercooler, n1 turbos and triple plate clutch...

Buying

Turbo back exhaust (unsure what diamater yet or twin/single. ideas?)

Power FC and controller

Boost controller (the add on one to the power fc)

Apexi intake...

then i have around 500 left and thats what ive talked my mate down to wid the cams..... 500 better spent any where else then??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553679
Share on other sites

I am on a tightish budget...

my cars stockish.. has a trust intercooler, n1 turbos and triple plate clutch...

Buying

Turbo back exhaust (unsure what diamater yet or twin/single. ideas?)

Power FC and controller

Boost controller (the add on one to the power fc)

Apexi intake...

then i have around 500 left and thats what ive talked my mate down to wid the cams..... 500 better spent any where else then??

TUNE

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553685
Share on other sites

^^^ good call, with your setup ADz you should see reasonable power as it is with a decent tune.

oh hey ive budgeted for a tune, sorry didnt put that.. still have around 500 left over... cam gears worth it on standered cams?

what kws est would u think that set up could make>?

Edited by Adz2332
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553705
Share on other sites

HKS DURALUMIN+ Ni PLATING cam gears. item number are.. 22004-AN002 RB exhaust, 22004-AN002 RB intake

Thats all i know about them and ive tried searching cant find anything... hmmmm can anyone shed some light on them??

Hi there, just a dumb question if it hasn't already been asked, $499 quoted is for HKS cams or HKS cam gears only?

Cheers GW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553709
Share on other sites

Hi there, just a dumb question if it hasn't already been asked, $499 quoted is for HKS cams or HKS cam gears only?

Cheers GW

na na not from a shop!!! mate has them selling cheap to me! mates rates lol and no cam gears

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553711
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...