Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got an AVO front mount on mine and it works well. Nice package bolts straight on no surprises. I believe im giving it a fair bit of work and it handles it nicely, during dyno runs the turbo side is almost too hot to touch whilst the plenum side is only marginally warm.

Any other reputable brand is probably just as good but the AVO is on par.

I got a custom AVO cooler built and its awesome... very thick bar and plate core, with end tanks that run piping out each end so i can run custom piping rather than through the stock position for when the plenum goes on and front mounted throttle body. but i must admit after looking for a while and researching brand name cores, a lot of the popular jap stuff is crap!! Trust me... research a bit of physics and you'll agree too. A big supriser, the popular HKS cooler is shyte... unless you plan yo spend up big on say a Trust SPL drag core then don't buy a jap cooler cos there is some really good stuff here with better results.

but i must admit after looking for a while and researching brand name cores, a lot of the popular jap stuff is crap!! Trust me... research a bit of physics and you'll agree too. A big supriser, the popular HKS cooler is shyte...

Thats a pretty big call, what physics tells us the stuff is crap?

I think i wored my statement wrong there, HKS coolers are good don't get me wrong and they are extremely popular but for the hype and brag about them, technically they are not there... put it this way a Hybrid cooler built in aus about 800 for it cooler more efficiently than a HKS type S...?? add piping and your look at around the 1350 mark, a HKS kit cheap is about 17-1800... why would ya bother just for a name? It just pays to do a bit of research on stuff to see what you are acutally buying.

Cool. i agree that they are not always good value for money, with many local kits being of equal quality, perhaps better. But my opinion (based on having some technical knowledge through study and work) is that the hype concerning most Jap intercoolers is warranted, but the price may not be.

If buying local though i hazard this warning, be sure to buy from a reputable place, such as AVO, ARE amongst others.

Some come with nicely formed end tanks but use cheap and nasty cores so to offer competitive prices. Some come with end tanks that are cast and based on the GTR end tank, but use poor flowing cores, problem is they look the goods, even the width of the tubes doesnt clue you in that the core is restrictive.

I was surprised to learn that bar and plate cores are on average cheaper to manufacture then tube and fin. Note: cheaper to manufacture, not are poorer quality or not as good.

There a positives and negatives to both types of coolers... depends on teh manufacturer of the core as to whether the bar na dplate core is likely to leak... basically garrett themselves say their cores aren't 100% sealed when they sell them to you!! But if you look at their core you'd see why its pretty damn average. Basically if you have the room to fit a large tube and fin cooler, go for it as it will work the best. However size for size, a bar and plate cooler will nearly all fo the time have a better result overall. A bar and plate cooler will get a lower intake temperature than a tube and fin HOWEVER will have a slightly higher pressure drop than a tube and find. this is why i said if you have the room to fit a large tube and fin then you can cool to the same amount but with less pressure drop...yes? So it all depends, on what you are after, and a lot of factors, i.e. size, shape, style or brand of core can be either tube and fin, bar and plate, square tube and fin etc. So to cut it short, bar and plate cools better, tube and fin less pressure drop...

  • 1 month later...
Originally posted by YBSLO4

My AVO cooler cost 880 for the bare core, bout 100 per end tank and the labor cost i aint sure of. But not cheap but worth the quality. ARE are also very very good, but are similar in pricing, but once again they aint cheap for a reason.

hmmmm

i can get an avo core 600x300 plus trust end tanks built for $500

glad i have good contacts :D

sHorty: New? unlikely. Genuine? possibly. Hot? Likely.

No offense, but genuine Trust/Apexi/AVO stuff starts at 1500 for the whole kit, maybe a bit less at trade.

Additionally, i'm fairly sure Trust don't make or sell separate end tanks, nor would AVO just sell the core. Why? To protect their name from badly assembled hack-togethers. Is the core stamped with AVO? Are the end tanks stamped with TRUST? Or did the person selling it just tell you that? Again i don't mean to offend; as long as the cooler does its job you got a great deal regardless of the make/manufacture.

I am waiting for an ARE cooler from QLD to come in about 2 weeks. I went with them (even though they are a bit dearer than other locals, but cheaper than a jap cooler) because they have a product that appears to be extensively researched and tested. As rb20-calais mentioned, they are renowned for quality of manufacture and performance. Bottom line is i know where the cooler is from and want to support the local industry.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...