Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hiya,

Catch can i fabbed today.

3 inch tube split in 2 halves, then adding 80mm flat section to expand the volume and allow for weld on fittings for the hoses.

Has a hole in the base to allow for drain back into the sump.

Has internal baffle to for oil mist to collect on inner baffle, didnt use the metal scourer stuff in the stocking as the oil drains back into the sump so if anything would happen to the stocking or scourer it would end up in the sump..

here are a few pics of it so far, its blasted ready for the powdercoating

yet to do :

Weld on fittings for breather lines and drain back

Powder coat it

post-5157-1198916920_thumb.jpg

post-5157-1198916935_thumb.jpg

post-5157-1198916948_thumb.jpg

post-5157-1198916960_thumb.jpg

post-5157-1198916992_thumb.jpg

post-5157-1198917017_thumb.jpg

post-5157-1198917056_thumb.jpg

post-5157-1198917107_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199467-todays-catch-can/
Share on other sites

nice work mate, cant wait to see it finished...

I just want you to make me a copy of all of this stuff your fabbing!!

haha soon soon, i havent touched a welder in a few months, since the one i was using went back to its owner :)

this particular catch can has given me some ideas on the internal workings of the washer bottle catch can in one. so hopefully i can get one of those working soon.

hehe funny you mention the washer bottle/catch can combo...been wanting 1 of those for a long time now...

here's some pics of 1 if you need any ideas

JaysR33038.jpg

JaysR33039.jpg

JaysR33040.jpg

JaysR33041.jpg

JaysR33056.jpg

JaysR33057.jpg

JaysR33058.jpg

JaysR33060.jpg

I'd definitely be interested in one of those if you got around to making 1 :devil:

Edited by **JaR**

AHAH!!!

the hardest part of it was seperating the 2 parts, now on theirs they make 2 cans and then weld them together ..

that should make it easier, just uses more material.

Cheers for that JAR

Dont forget that in a road car the catch can cannot vent into atmosphere, hence no filter at the top.

yep thats right Charlie.

1 in - 1 out and the drain.

The Rips style would be a little messy to plumb back, but not impossible

Edit : that R33 pictured is setup wrong all together :D - kinda defeating the purpose

last pic, rocker cover still connected to the intake pipe.

lets it draw air from the filter on the catch can, plus would let oil mist go that way as that would be the easiest path for it - rather than going through the catch can first

last pic, rocker cover still connected to the intake pipe.

lets it draw air from the filter on the catch can, plus would let oil mist go that way as that would be the easiest path for it - rather than going through the catch can first

yeh i noticed that too, if that pipe to the intake is blocked it would be okay yeh?

yeh i noticed that too, if that pipe to the intake is blocked it would be okay yeh?

yep, that little one that loops over

still lets some air into the plenum if you leave the pcv open though- only on idle though

yep thats right Charlie.

1 in - 1 out and the drain.

The Rips style would be a little messy to plumb back, but not impossible

Edit : that R33 pictured is setup wrong all together :blink: - kinda defeating the purpose

Actually that pipe is a bit of a trick lol, i had nothing to block up that breather with so left the standard pipe that normally goes to the intake pipe on but blocked up the end of it (the hole in the intake pipe was blocked up aswell ofcourse), i have since got a rubber cap to block off that breather.

Thats my car by the way :), basically my setup is just the two breather pipes coming off the cam covers going into the RIPS catchcan, everything else was blocked off, my setup is illegal in aussie from what ive read but you could always just weld another fitting onto the catchcan and run a hose with a pcv/one way valve back to the intake manifold to make it legal over there, would be easy enough.

You can see in these pics how that breather was blocked off

100_2066.jpg

100_2070.jpg

Edited by nizmo_freek
ahh yes

tricky tricky :blink:

few little extra additions in there now too - nice

hehe, cheers :), should have another new addition in there soon, ive got a hks 3037 pro s turbo kit on its way from japan :D

Edited by nizmo_freek
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...