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Just installed a couple of gauges to keep tabs on things, ive been using the factory gauges so far but we all know the oil press gauges are quite dicky sometimes!

Anyway, once up to operating temp, oil press is at 3-4 bar at 1000 rpm, and at 3000 til redline goes up to 7-8bar.. seems a little high?

oil temp also seems to take a while to come up... and sits at 60 degrees just sitting there idling and its 40 degrees outside... i havent driven it yet so im thinking its prob not loaded up enough. theres an oil cooler on it with an oil thermostat.

Edited by Simon-R32
Just installed a couple of gauges to keep tabs on things, ive been using the factory gauges so far but we all know the oil press gauges are quite dicky sometimes!

Anyway, once up to operating temp, oil press is at 3-4 bar at 1000 rpm, and at 3000 til redline goes up to 7-8bar.. seems a little high?

oil temp also seems to take a while to come up... and sits at 60 degrees just sitting there idling and its 40 degrees outside... i havent driven it yet so im thinking its prob not loaded up enough. theres an oil cooler on it with an oil thermostat.

Hi there, I cannot comment on your oil circuit (me unskilled) except to ask how did it used to work(?) but as far as the measure checks go & without immersing electrical bits; Oil temp can be checked by pulling temp sensor & placing sensor tip in mixture of ice cubes/water gently stirring while still connected & elect/power on. Should read 0 deg. C or thereabouts. (You will need to run a temporary neg wire from body of sensor to bat neg for each sensor test if sensor single wire type.)

Next place sensor tip in boiling water, don't burn pinkies allow to stabilise/warm up (1-2 minutes max) should read 100 deg C.

Next, find someone with portable test pump & standard pressure gauge 0-10bar (like me-instrument basher) & pump the pressure sensor gently (doan wanna pump the guts out of it) up through the measuring range. Compare against test gauge. If allus good I would be happy to have your oil system in my car.

Cheers GW :(

PS: I live beyond the Black Stump so cannot drop in to help.

Edited by 260tech

Those readings do seem a little high.

From memory the manual says it should be ~1bar at idle and i think 3-4 bar for anything over 3k rpm

Maybe the fittings on your oil cooler are a bit restrictive, hence the higher pressures

its 80psi @ pressure relief setting in the factory manual.

so if your at 100, a little over, but wouldn't be concerned to much myself.

either the pump might be shimmed up, pump off another rb engine or maybe oil viscosity plays a part.

its 80psi @ pressure relief setting in the factory manual.

so if your at 100, a little over, but wouldn't be concerned to much myself.

either the pump might be shimmed up, pump off another rb engine or maybe oil viscosity plays a part.

not only what weight of oil but brand at cold start visc. especially....

Generally you cold start CST rating will be quite high for a 50/60wt oil e.g a 15w60 when compared to OEM specs. Nissan oil which is 7.5W30 from memory which will have a much better cold start visc. rating and your pressure should start a bit lower and get to temp faster.

Once at temp I would be intrested to see what the pressure is. Mine jumps up to 3-4bar initially until it gets to temp then operates as expected eg 3bar 3k and over.

my 2 cents.

Regarding the oil temp, where in the circuit is your temp sensor mounted? out going or return? and if it's on the return side will it see any oil before the thermostat opens? I'd expect it doesn't open before about 80 degrees.

With my N1 pump I see 100psi on cold start, once at normal operating temperature I get 12-15psi at idle (sometimes only 20psi if it's a really cold day), pressure climbs quite rapidly with revs, 40psi at just over 2000rpm, 60psi about 3000rpm and up to 80psi by redline.

P.S. After seeing the problems with a couple of different B&M shifters that mates have had recently, I wouldn't trust B&M as far as I could throw one of their dodgy mexican workers!

Edited by bubba

You could bypass the cooler and put the oil filter back onto the block and see what the pressure is?

At least then you know if its the cooler or something else

was out on the track on sunday... oil temp seems to be low!! pressure was fine once it warmed right up, with around 1.5 bar at idle and up to 6-7 bar at full noise, shoots up quick from idle to 3000 rpm, so all is good there.

temps however, the hottest i could get it to was 85 degrees, that was after several hard 3rd and 4th gear WOT near limiter drift.... so yeah, i was expecting it to reach at least 100 and stay there, track temps was around 29-30 degrees too so not a cold day.

thoughts?

i would expect 80-90, closer to 90 fixed value but under all conditions, not dropping below 80 thats for sure.

it will depend i think partly on the thermostat setting, if its got a low degC rating it could be opening to early and wiping off the heat all the time and keeping it lower then you want.

i know there is guys that race here and could tell you for sure how it works, but if your stuck head over to performanceforums and ask "hsvsux" what the typical behaviour is. he track races his rb and has oil coolers, fairly sure with a thermostat system, but have to ask.

if its too cold you will not get maximum protection from the oil.

edit: i remember on a bmi video, they raced 3 gtrs, r34 v spec, r33 v spec, r32 non v spec, because the r32 didn't have an oil cooler as standard like the others, the driver cooked the oil after a few laps, racing the other gtrs and had to basically slow down and stop, oil was 130+degC off the guage, haha

Edited by RB30-POWER

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