Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im thinking about doing a project car that alot of poeple are probably gonna hate me for, but i dont care as its my money and i can do what i want with it.

Im looking for ideas and sugestions on what i can and cant do, ways things could be done and just what would be the better and easier way. Please if you have nothing nice to say dont say it at all, or if you have to, pm me. . cheers

Ok so this is what im thinking. . I want a big car so i can fit more than a shoe box in, something that i can drop nice and low and give a VIP look to it, something that can tow a trailer like a boat or a 6x4 and still be good to just cruise around in, AND has decent power . . nothing crazy . . . yet lol

Im thinking about Doing a VT-VX Wagon (as i like the interior and i used to have a VT Wagon so i know a bit about them). . This is where it changes. . Id like to put either a RB26DETT or a 2JZ GTE motor, gearbox and diff in.

I know it is possible but what one would be better to use. . . im leaning more for the 2JZ as i dont have to worry about all the 4wd bits on the 26 motor and box, making it cheaper. . .

Im open to any ideas on what car or motor to use (no V8s or V6s) Would even consider a rotary. . .

Oh and it would be for everyday use too.

Cheers

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199906-cross-breeding/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Go old school. 64 Studebaker Cruiser would make a good looking VIP with the right mods. :P and for towing, you cant beat the V8. (think std they ran a 289 but i would dump that and go Chev....350 would be the better choice as parts are easy and chaep to get) :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199906-cross-breeding/#findComment-3560114
Share on other sites

Go old school. 64 Studebaker Cruiser would make a good looking VIP with the right mods. :P and for towing, you cant beat the V8. (think std they ran a 289 but i would dump that and go Chev....350 would be the better choice as parts are easy and chaep to get) :)

LOL nah not after a V8. . Im after a turboed jap motor in a newish modern looking car

Edited by Daniel R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199906-cross-breeding/#findComment-3560123
Share on other sites

The studebaker cruiser (64 or 65) could be made to look modern. Google them and have a look. There would be plenty of room in the engine bay to put what ever you want (toyota/lexus V8 perhaps?) a nice coat of paint, tinted windows, big rims etc etc.......it could work :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199906-cross-breeding/#findComment-3560144
Share on other sites

I've seen a 25 in a VS and a 2JZ in a VN/VG ute. Both were alright but I heard the VS was a big of a slug, fairly stock, while the 2JZ was rather extensively worked.

Personally, if I was to buy a VIP cruiser type vehicle that could still tow stuff, I would get a Celsior/LS400 and order a blower kit from the states. Small capacity turbo 6 would suck for towing IMO, blown v8 FTW!

Not to mention that there is some serious engineering to be done when transplanting engines, especially from different manufacturers. What about a gen3 CrossX8 thing? dump it on its' ass, big rims, turbo kit.. :P

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199906-cross-breeding/#findComment-3560254
Share on other sites

What about a gen3 CrossX8 thing? dump it on its' ass, big rims, turbo kit.. >_<

Nah not a fan of V8s yes there good but id rather a 6. And i want the mechanical side of it to be jap stuff not aussie or american. . .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199906-cross-breeding/#findComment-3560626
Share on other sites

Prob my old white ute.

I didn't realise 350 ATW was sluggish >_<

hp or kw?:) nah it was a sedan, saw it up at barbagello many moons ago.

Nah not a fan of V8s yes there good but id rather a 6. And i want the mechanical side of it to be jap stuff not aussie or american. . .

1UZFE then, as strong as a 2JZ in stock form.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199906-cross-breeding/#findComment-3560674
Share on other sites

no chance of fitting a RB26 into a legnum, its an east/west V6 with the gearbox in the engine bay, so no real transmission tunnel.

the TT V6 in the legnum though has PLENTY of torque for towing though. >_<

or if you still want a rb26/2jz commy, go the 2JZ!

OR if you will settle for a twin turbo V6, chuck a 6A13TT, or 6G72TT in it. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199906-cross-breeding/#findComment-3560884
Share on other sites

64 Studebaker...I think I speak for many when I say "I didnt see that one coming" :)

Daniel. Dont know if you could get a 2JZ or an RB in to a VT.

Go a Buick V6 Turboed. Same mounts, same G'box as the Oz stuff, basically Holden used the Buick bottom end but changed the head studs so you couldnt put the hardcore Buick heads etc on the econo pack commode and guys in the states have been making good HP on those combos for years. Maybe look at the Statesman V6- I'm told that that motor is most probably the full Buick Supercharged V6 from the GNX as the head wont go on the econo pack commode. If you that keene on a straight six probably look at something pre VN..mo engine bay.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199906-cross-breeding/#findComment-3561183
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...