Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys went to start the 32 yesterday and all that it was doing is the starter solioind was clicking thats bout it i checked the batt and even used a next door neighbours ford battery to try and jump but same problem im going out now to give the starter a bit of a bash and check the fuses but i dont think that will

help i think its an electrical problem cause when you turn it to start all the warning lights flicker and the hicas makes a weird gurgling noise as opposed to the usual fuel pump soud it has any help would be greatly appreciated

cheers josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199975-gtr-wont-start/
Share on other sites

another thing is check that the battery terminals are secure and tight. sometimes they make enough contact for a while then the wriggle a little the last time u drove it and now dont have the contact to draw the needed power from the battery

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199975-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-3560966
Share on other sites

yeah it has fuel it dosent crank over it is only the starter solionid clicking and battery terminals are secure but i need to do get a battery charger or a new battery i left the door a little bit open last night after working on it and its dead,and i checked all fuses this morn as well and there fine i think it has something to do with the thermos i wired up but i took the positive wire off the battery and only left the earth connected to the relay and it still did it so then i unplugged the relays and tried again and it still did it,also i turned the motor over buy hand to make sure it wasent seized or the starter wasent seized

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199975-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-3560977
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...