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Extracting Codes? S2 (without Battery Disconnect!)

iijj

By iijj,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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iijj Community Regular

iijj

Posted
Posted

If I disconnect the battery etc I'm going to have to reconfigure the RSM, the ttimer, the EBC, the stereo, the clock, etc so how can I extract the error codes without doing the battery thing.

My R33 had the old 2 wire in grey connector trick that worked a treat, but there's nothing I can see in the fuse area that looks like that... HELP!

I have searched for over an hour without much luck. Have downloaded all the english stagea fuse info etc.

I assume it's similar for R34 owners!?!

Anyone!

Ta...

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted (edited)

yes, you can use the paper clip method, bottom left 2, marked in red.

Maybe your harness is unclipped and hidden somewhere around the fuse box.

post-780-1199763143_thumb.jpg

Edited by chook
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
ShadowKnyght Collaborator

ShadowKnyght

Posted
Posted

Are these the codes for the R34?

Could not find them when searching this forum... but had downloaded a Skyline manual pdf a few days ago - are these right?

ECU Diagnostic Codes

11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)

13 Coolant temperature circuit

14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit

21 Ignition circuit

31 ECU (ouch!)

34 Knock sensor

43 Throttle position circuit

45 Injector leak

51 Ignition circuit

54 Auto signal to ECU

55 All OK

ShadowKnyght Collaborator

ShadowKnyght

Posted
Posted

Appears my car is overly optomistic - thinks nothing is wrong... I get 55 all ok!

But my car once warm has been idling like crap (rough - car shudders randomly - possibly missfiring), and recently started to miss fire even when reved over 1200 rpm (prior to this it could "idle" fine if I kept her over 1200rpm).

Very rarely it will back fire when changing from 2nd to third...

I have changed the spark plugs and the O2 sensor...

change the oil and filter and run a tank with some injector cleaner...

As this problem only shows up once the engine is warm - not sure what to put it down to? temp sensor?

AFM?

Coils?

blocked exhaust?

fuel filter?

injectors?

Australia's shitty fuel?

My mixture appears to be running rich (not sure if this is due to the missfiring or something else as the O2 sensor was changed - and when doing so it was covered in black soot. Carbon.

As the O2 sensor seems to be the main part in the system that is supposed to regulate the fuel misture I am at a loss as to how to lean it out??

My thread is here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...t-p3938115.html

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

just need to work your way through, get your injectors ultrasonically cleaned, new fuel filter, new coolant sensor (changed mine recently from Nissan),O2 sensor (bosch EL falcon), splitfires, new plugs.

Sounds like a spark or injector issue, possibly AFM, doubt it would be O2 sensor. Most/all of this stuff should be changed when you get the car anyway considering age of car.

http://www.scmotorsports.ca/public/skyline...service_man.pdf

ShadowKnyght Collaborator

ShadowKnyght

Posted
Posted

Reason for suspecting O2 initially is my poor fuel economy and the rich mixture etc...

So you used Bosch EL Flacon sensor? I used the NGK one that is for the R33...? did I do wrong.

NGK / NTK OZA395-E2 $85.80

Do you know the part number for the fuel filter?

The coolant sensor I take is a temp sensor? might be my next thing to check (part number?)

Any idea how much it costs to ultrasonically clean the injectors?

Again remember this only happens when the engine is warm so - not sure if alot of the above applies...

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

dead knock sensor would have no effect, it would just prevent your timing from retarding if you were knocking. O2 sensor is fine. There are 2 sensors for temp, coolant and temperature(gauge), you want coolant, i can post part # later tonight. Fuel filter, Z201 or i use a larger 300zx one Z202, larger and cheaper. Fuel filter wont be your prob though, but good to change it if you havnt already.

Prob leave injectors until later if ever if it is temperature related, more likely to be coils or plugs with consideration to coolant sensor, AFM if that doesnt work.

Techo Collaborator

Techo

Posted
Posted

Running rich & idling roughly sounds like your either getting too much fuel or too little air so I'd personally be checking if you have a leak in the intake somewhere (it's the cheapest test). Loose clamps, disconnected vacuum line or split hose would be the likely causes or a crack in the intercooler core could do it to.

To test everything, just mix up a 50:50 mix of dish washing liquid & water & paint it on all the hoses & connections (& any thing else that you consider suspect) whilst the car is idling. If you get bubbles then there is a leak.

If you don't find anything then I would start looking at a fuel issue.

ShadowKnyght Collaborator

ShadowKnyght

Posted
Posted

yeah may have to try that I idled for a long while the other day though - but never really saw the fault - but the temp outside was 18+ so it really does seem to only get bad below 13 degrees...

anyway - with my head in the engine bay - there did seem to be a just detectable hiss noise to the left of the main engine area - between the main body and the side part to the left where the air and a fair few hoses go... not sure what that part of the engine is called...

Not sure if there is a true leak or hiss or if it just sounds like it due to the shape of the area of that engine making or creating an almost sea shell effect funnelling other engine noise through...

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

alright - seeing as I have a consult cable - but been too lazy to work out the wiring for it - I am going to do this method

ok - so I see the pins I need to short

then I Am guessing you look at the check engine light - and I also presume that its one set of flashes - a break - then the 2nd set of flashes - to give you your 2 digit code right?

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