Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got another question about cams. didnt want to waste space with a new topic.

i have found some replacement cams.

they are: 270duration and 10.25mm lift.

now i can get these in both exhaust and intake,

but if i stick this size on intake how will it run?

will it run like a dog?

i heard u need a different size on the intake?

Go for a GT35-66R with 0.82 rear. It is a GT35 with T04Z compressor wheel. It has a 66mm inducer compared to 61mm on the compressor side. Essentialy it is a "high-flow" GT35, that will be more responsive than a T04Z and make similar top end. I know GCG does them, not sure who else does.

thx. i have sourced a gt3540. but need info on cams

i have found some replacement cams.

they are: 270duration and 10.25mm lift.

now i can get these in both exhaust and intake,

but if i stick this size on intake how will it run?

will it run like a dog?

i heard u need a different size on the intake?

thx. i have sourced a gt3540. but need info on cams

i have found some replacement cams.

they are: 270duration and 10.25mm lift.

now i can get these in both exhaust and intake,

but if i stick this size on intake how will it run?

will it run like a dog?

i heard u need a different size on the intake?

I had 272's on both exhaust and intake with extensive head work. Sounded tough on idle but would hunt like a pig driving around, became something that started to be annoying to "go for a cruise in".

Turbo was a td06-25g base with t78-34d wheels and rear housing (dont ask me why, it came on the car), something like 1.0 - 1.1bar at 3800rpm and 490rwhp on pump at 1.5bar. The guy I sold the car to has had the motor on an engine dyno and made 720hp at the fly at 2bar IIRC with alot more tuning and playing around.

I have no idea if you "have to" run different size's on the intake, I just know althought my car was streetable it was a pain in the ass to drive off boost around town.

wat was wrong nismo..

just guttless or something?

well i can go intake, 260, 9.25mm, exhaust; 170, 10.25mm

im gonna put 270's in mine intake and exhaust its a 25.. but i needs solid shim bucket setup and found out today that tomei dont make em ne more so now i gotta source sum from sumwhere else but i always see cars with different size cams on the intake generally smaller so who knows

ahhh ok..

some good tuning should fix that.

anyway guys i have just sent payment on a gt35/40, tial wastegate and a plazmamann high mount manifold.

anyone remember the price of their custom dump pipe, it needs a 02 sensor with threaded bung installed, im guessing 200+.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...