Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To my small knowledge Tomei do not make lock bars.. only the lock kit as posted on ebay.

So it's pretty much two shims to stop the hicas bar moving and a electrical box to trick the computer into thinking the hicas is still working to prevent hicas light coming on etc etc

Personally i went the "chuck the hicas out" method and put a lock bar in place (think i payed around $40 for it off here???) because i didnt want to pay $170 for the tomei one. Also got rid of useless weight (hicas is heavy) and just took the hicas globe out.....

Since you have an R33 replacing with a lock bar is easy and you dont have to worry about hydro lines like on a 32 where a tomei lock kit might be an easier option!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200905-hicas-lock-bars/#findComment-3582359
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Remember you'll need a 4wheel alignment straight after.

I just threw one in my 33, went for a quick drive round the block and she seems to be crabbing a bit, is the wheel alignment gonna fix this up??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200905-hicas-lock-bars/#findComment-3649768
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

cant u just unplug the harness on the hicas motor on the r33's?

and just remove the fuse in the rear of the boot, so the light doesnt appear? -> if there is a fuse/relay..lol ????????

so why sell lock bar for 33, wen people can simple just unplug the harness to turn-it off?????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200905-hicas-lock-bars/#findComment-3840843
Share on other sites

cant u just unplug the harness on the hicas motor on the r33's?

and just remove the fuse in the rear of the boot, so the light doesnt appear? -> if there is a fuse/relay..lol ????????

Isn't the lock bar to make sure it never moves....?

Anyway, I'm looking at HICAS lock bars, there's a lot of talk about ripping it all out but I'm pretty sure that relates to the R32 (or does it?)

Cheapest I've found so far is:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R33-...bayphotohosting

If anyone knows where to get it cheaper that would be great, all the R33 bars look identical to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200905-hicas-lock-bars/#findComment-3841134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...