Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently Im running a dual diafram clutchnet PP with 6puc sprung disk and a fidanza ally flywheel, thing shudders A LOT, its not a very nice formualtion they used for the disk pad's. For now it has been ok, land up with a very sore left foot and battle to pull away in the wet or up my driveway without chriping the tires.

I am not looking towards somthing with lighter clutch pedal effort, and slightly more HP capability to suit the new motor with around 400kw, Been looking at some twin plate's and from previous experience with the old school twin plates it leaves me with a sour taste, is there anything on the market you guys use that is not to brutal with shudder and clutch load yet can hold some decent power? Did a search but couldnt find anything useful.

The car is used on the street with very ocasional track usage, and the odd drag with fairly small M/T ET streets

Thanks

Currently Im running a dual diafram clutchnet PP with 6puc sprung disk and a fidanza ally flywheel, thing shudders A LOT, its not a very nice formualtion they used for the disk pad's. For now it has been ok, land up with a very sore left foot and battle to pull away in the wet or up my driveway without chriping the tires.

I am not looking towards somthing with lighter clutch pedal effort, and slightly more HP capability to suit the new motor with around 400kw, Been looking at some twin plate's and from previous experience with the old school twin plates it leaves me with a sour taste, is there anything on the market you guys use that is not to brutal with shudder and clutch load yet can hold some decent power? Did a search but couldnt find anything useful.

The car is used on the street with very ocasional track usage, and the odd drag with fairly small M/T ET streets

Thanks

tripple plate OS giken is the g-o, tuff as nails and they dont shudder

tripple plate OS giken is the g-o, tuff as nails and they dont shudder

What is the pedal weight like? I need somthing that wont kill me in a little bit of traffic, I nengun dont sell them, any idea who does or rough price idea?

Take a look at the Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate, i haven't personally used it but from what i hear its very similar to a standard organic clutch in terms of drive ability around town and is rated for 600hp.

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/super-coppermi...in-plate-clutch

ATS carbon twin plate

is the stuff factory pedal soft just no slip

They are a touch out of my budget unfortunatly,

Looks like a toss up between the Nismo supercoppermix twin and the ORC 709, has anyone got first hand experience with the orc 709?

Contact jim berry in Bris. He made me an organic clutch for my gtr. done heaps of launches and a couple of sprint meets & hasnt let me down. easy to use in traffic & light under foot, doesnt shudder either.

People go overboard with expensive twin, triple & button clutches but it isnt required or practical for most applications.

It only cost me about $350 too.

iv got a orc 2win plate button, its light under the foot, a lil noisy when u step on it, but takes a long time to get use to and not the best on hils or ups n downs or TRAFIC. in fact its real bitch to park in tight spots but u get use to it how ever i always avoid trafic even if it means ill just sit n have a drink till 6 .. not worth the head ache..

might try the nismos next to see..

  • 1 year later...

I had huge problems in my old 33. Went through 2 exedy's under wty then gave up. My old man who is a mechanic got me onto somebody in lismore he has known for 30+ years that did an awesome job on a nice single for me. Held my 345rwkw no problems no matter how i drove it :)

Have a chat to Dave Write on 0266216495. Best thing i ever done. Cheap, quick and he said he builds a few big hp skyline clutches for a few workshops in sydney

Edited by coaster

I'm using an NPC single to hold around the horsepower you are looking to make. Pedal weight is as light if not lighter than stock. Its a bit sudden but quite easy to control once you learn it.

Kills the berry single I had prior to this. Berry clutch was just as grabby but way heavier pedal and with less clamping pressure than the NPC.

been more than 18 months now since I went with the Nismo supercopper mix twin plate, best clutch I have ever used! and as with all things car I landed up with 150kw more than antisipated in the power department... The Nismo clutch feels no pain when the T04z is at full tilt.

I stripped it out last week to change the N1 oil pump, clutch after 20 000km's of abuse still looks like new. Still running as smooth as stock and the only con is a tiny little bit heavier than stock clutch, probably within 10%.

been more than 18 months now since I went with the Nismo supercopper mix twin plate, best clutch I have ever used! and as with all things car I landed up with 150kw more than antisipated in the power department... The Nismo clutch feels no pain when the T04z is at full tilt.

I stripped it out last week to change the N1 oil pump, clutch after 20 000km's of abuse still looks like new. Still running as smooth as stock and the only con is a tiny little bit heavier than stock clutch, probably within 10%.

Sounds to me like you've answered your own question. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...