Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Another reason they can blink fast is iff you replace your blinkers with smaller ones like i did it lowers the resistance and the flasher unit thinks there is a blown globe you either need a different flasher unit or wire in some larger globes like i did

I'm not sure if this is relevant but when I disconnected the front indicator/foggy connector

and turned the indicator on, though there's no light but the interior dash indicator indicator flashes like crazy

I'm not sure if this is relevant but when I disconnected the front indicator/foggy connector

and turned the indicator on, though there's no light but the interior dash indicator indicator flashes like crazy

i think its the same situation where if a globe is broken you have broken the curcuit so if a globe is removed the curcuit is broken too? not 100% if that correct though..

^ yep, broken curcuit will make it flash faster too. i recently had this happen after putting my front bar back on. i thought it was a blown globe, but actually it was making poor contact in the holder. cleaned it up, problem solved.

If you havent changed anything then its going to be a blown globe.

i know it started with mine because i put smaller indicators into my front bar as i hated the big ugly orange ones.

i dont mind them flashing fast but does anyone know if its illegal?

If you havent changed anything then its going to be a blown globe.

i know it started with mine because i put smaller indicators into my front bar as i hated the big ugly orange ones.

i dont mind them flashing fast but does anyone know if its illegal?

Could cause people to have seizures(sp?). So would say that it's illegal.

there is a legal rate that all cars in australia must flash between, cant remember what it is off the top of my head, fairly decent size range though, also on my 32 i noticed it doing this, stupid thing has 2 blinker globes in the corner lights, took me a while to relalise

I've got this problem of having them go fast one day and normal the next. I think there's something loose.

I get this on mine from time to time. Turns out there's a water leak letting drops of water into the socket for the rear lights and causing a short. Once it dries out, it all works fine. When the rain stops after a wet period, I usually spray some electronic cleaner in there which evaporates the water real fast...

Might be something else on yours though.

Ok yesterday I took out the Amber lens after heating it in the oven,

put in some orange bulbs and glad wrap over the indicators (just a temporary solution)

connected it back up and today my indicators go like crazy, everything is working

but the indicators are flashing like 3 times a second.

It goes back to normal when I put the emergency lights on.

Any ideas guys?

Edited by POLICE
I get this on mine from time to time. Turns out there's a water leak letting drops of water into the socket for the rear lights and causing a short. Once it dries out, it all works fine. When the rain stops after a wet period, I usually spray some electronic cleaner in there which evaporates the water real fast...

Might be something else on yours though.

Hrmm, cheers for that mate. I'm gonna keep an eye out what happens after a down pour.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...