Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Well my Vspec R33 GTR has been a lot of fun in its current tune but I am after a little more power and as much response as is possible. The car is a daily driver for the most part so I dont want to loose that smooth drivability of a fairly stock system, and would like to really keep the response of the engine as close to stock or even improve on it if thats possible.

I am thinking of getting a pair of GTSS's but I have found little comparing the drivability of these with stock turbo's with regards to response and development of torque in the 3000-6000 rpm range. For the most part I never rev the engine past 7000.

I figure i'd also add HKS dumps to the shopping list along with some ported stock manifolds or agian hks or tomei manifolds.

Also with regards to chamshaft timing, where is the direction to go in if chasing more response and low to mid range torque torque?

Im adding a PWR 40mm radiator this week as the current one is beginning to look a little sad. The car compression tested at 185 on all cylidners so i know everything is in top shape. Ive put about 8000k's on the car since getting it and spare no expense with regards to maintenance and upkeep.

Here is the current mod list:

ARC Super Cold air induction box

Hi Octane custom baffeled breather box/washer bottle tank

HKS 100mm Intercooler

Gates radiator hoses

Gates timing belt

N1 water pump

Nismo front pipe

HKS 100mm exhaust

Greddy adjustable intake and exhaust cam gears

Apexi Power FC tuned to 1 bar by some tuner on the gold coast, but i have it dialed back to 10lb for reliability.

Apexi AVCR

All Redline Synthetic fluids and oils.

Ive had the big single lag monster skyline prior to this one and frankly power is over-rated. I do miss the nimbleness of the R32 though, and am hoping that with the right mods will gain some of that back for the R33.

Any suggestions?

GT-SS for a street car.

LOADS of threads on them now, results, other parts and so on

Believe me I have spent hours using search and browsing the dyno thread but its hard to gauge whats really what when the responsiveness I am after is more of a perception thing. Everyone talks about the power for sure but thats not what I am after.

I dont want a mega powerful GTR and most of the GTSS thread talk about power ranging from 280-400kw (race fuel) but ive seen few actually talk about at what rpm a certain boost level is achieved, expecially in the lower gears where it counts. I want one that pulls like a train midrange, and makes boost just off idle. I'd be happy if it had the power level it already has, and just widened the power band a lot more.

Of course a little more power would be great too. The current tune doesnt really get up and go till around 5000 rpm or so. Lowering that 1k RPM would be a great start. Maybe something from the trust catalogue might prove more responsive but I have no idea about that stuff.

Edited by Vspec R33

The GTSS's will do exactly that, widen the powerband more with same wind up response of the stock turbos

they are i think 0.60a/r the stockers are 0.48/ar so its only a tiny step up. they are known to be the best turbo's cloest to stock

and they will max out around 300kw - definetly not 400kw

no twin setup on the 2.6 will make boost off idle - you would need stroker setup, 3 litre etc

There's no substitute for testing what a car performes like in the real word, but getting even a passenger ride can be very hard. No two cars are exactly the same but I went the Garret 2860-5's (like the HKS 2530's) and my car runs the same (as in pick up) as when I had the stock turbo's except with much more power around 4500-5000rpm. Saying that they are now running 18psi and I'm not sure if my original turbo's were in the best condition.

If I were to do it again I'd try the GTSS HKS turbo's. But i'm considering the 2.8 stroker unit + cams to bring boost on earlier.

Yeah I saw the 2.8 kit that someone has for sale in the parts section too, but thats a can of worms I dont want to open.... just yet.

Was the HKS 2510 supposed to be a simular replacement to the stock turbo but plain bearing, that was then superseeded by the GTSS?

The best price ive found so far on a new GTSS kit is $2700.

Is it worth replacing the manifolds at the same time, or only if your going to match port to the head, and turbine housing..? Every thread on front end exhaust ive read says get rid of the stock dump pipes ASAP, but not much of a mention is made of the primary manifolds.

hi vspecr33.

here in the uk they seem to favour gt-ss turbos, with tomei poncams 260,s 9.15mm lift seems goods. cars seem to produce 500-550bhp @ the fly and boost from 3000rpm onwards..bernie

Edited by rockabilly

GT-ss all the way for what you want. If your prepared to go further latter on then the 2530's would also be a good choice.

Cams are always extremely good and nothing can be taken away for a good tune.

If your happy with the car being at full tilt by 4 grand then the SS/2530's are the only two you should be considering.

i honestly feel that my GT-SS twins come on slightly earlier than the stockers did thanks to cam gears and a decent tune. These definitely sound like the turbos you want that have a phat midrange and pull early.

Thanks to the exchange rate they really arent the expensive option they used to be

Im pretty much sold on SS's and perhaps some Jun 260 or poncams. I found a dyno sheet that showed full boost of 15psi by about 105km/h in 4th, so thats pretty good. I doubt I want to run more than 1 bar anyway, I just want a tiny bit more without worrying about that ceramic wheels issue.

Thanks for the input everyone.

GTSS come on the same as my stock turbos, but just produce more power/run more boost.

Stock cams are fine. Just get adjustable cam gears and a good tuner! ;) Ohh and a good exaust, gotta flow nice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...