Jump to content
SAU Community

Epa Friendly 300kw Skyline

Dean_HR31
 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
hahaha how come r31nismoid gets to call people "retarted child" and stupid lol. personally i think if someone has a problem with someone else you should take it to PM. We dont need more name calling, especially from a moderator, as this just opens up a window for everyone else to call others what they please. After all this is supposed to be a friendly discussion forum aimed at assisting other fellow skyline owners. So, if you have a few little tricks and you dont want to share, you should probably not bring it up in the first place, as i can see why some people might see you as holding out :)

Sometimes friendly PM's just dont work ;)

Oh, and keep reading my post till you get the 'point', you should eventually.

Lets get back to the topic at hand now shall we?

Dont want this poor blokes thread closed down

QUICKY Community Regular

QUICKY

Posted
Posted

Sometimes friendly PM's just dont work ;)

Oh, and keep reading my post till you get the 'point', you should eventually.

hmm well if friendly pms dont work, doesnt really give anyone the right to start bad mouthing other sau members. i know cauz i got banned for that :). and please stop indirectly calling people idiots ;). its just not nice. You see i do get your point. however, you wording doesnt exactly imply what u claim to have meant :)

anywhoooooo enough said, as for the topic. there are a few people on this forum who were forced to pass an EPA test, and im sure they are willing to share their experiences with you. Mrgtr911 is an example.

good luck dude

Dean_HR31 Mentor

Dean_HR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hmmm yes...

Now this is the thing, i obviously know the way the car is gonna be on the road will not be EPA friendly.. BUT if it were to get an EPA id like to only have to change easy things for it to pass.

My main concern is the Turbo. What Turbo/Setup could i run (making a responsive 270-280rwkw) which wouldnt have to be changed if i were to cop an EPA? I know for a fact the labour to remove and re fit the turbo would be the dearest in process of getting the car through EPA.

Things like exhaust, aftermarket computer, BOV & injectors i dont mind not passing cos they aren't hard to change with standard parts if i get EPA'd. Especially since im running a plug in Microtech which can be plugged at any time!

Am I making sense? And can anyone give me some detailed advice...?

... OK back on topic, can someone read the above i wrote on page 1 and please respond if they understand what im saying??

I dont want a car thats gonna be permanently EPA friendly cos i think iv now realised its just almost impossible. Plus i dont want my car sounding like a Mitsubishi Magna...

Basically, I know my exhaust will never pass cos its F***** loud but i dont care cos in the event of an EPA i will just put a standard R33 exhaust on whicl will take me 15 minutes.

Things like the Computer which is just plug in will also take me 5 or less minutes to replace in event of an EPA.

I guess my main concern is what Turbo & Wastegate i could run which will make me a fairly responsive 260-280 rear wheel kws without having to replace in event of an EPA.

Replacing the Turbo with standard would obviously be the most costly thing if it wasnt EPA passable. Am i wrong?

So thats basically my only query now guys. What power turbo setup will pass? Changing computer, injectors, BOV, exhaust is not a concern for me with EPA cos they are small things to replace.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

friendly pm's are for people who have friends.

anyways, swapping off the turbo would probably be the most expensive thing you do, yes. but getting a hiflow turbo and keeping it on would be better.

things like the computer wont really matter as i dont think they check for this. just your emissions.

so if you got a decent tune on low boost, and im talking 2-3psi (you wont reach any higher boost when they check your emissions as they rev it in neutral), it would be a different story if they actually drove the car, can someone confirm if they do?

stolen_s15 Mentor

stolen_s15

Posted
Posted

EPA only conduct their tests with the vehicle staionary.

The problem you will have mate is that when you get pulled over by the police they can photograph your engine and note the mods, which you say you will remove when you get the subsequent date with the EPA. If this process repeats and the police/epa can prove (with those photos they take when you cop a defect/epa notice) that you are repeatedly failing to comply you can get a VERY large fine.

My 2c

bombtrack Experienced

bombtrack

Posted
Posted

When I got defected in my old R33, they didn't take any photos. Is this a new practice? My last defect would have been at least 2 years ago. :P

Also, to hijack a little but not much, any comments on whether an HKS 2835 Pro S would be much worse than a hi-flow in terms of emissions? I suppose it all depends on the tune. I guess if you run a hi-flow setup at 280kW and a 2835 setup at 280kW the emissions would be similar if not identical?

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

i passed the emissions test with a gt3540 & 740cc injectors, my car came off the dyno with 314rwkw 2 days before the test with nothing changed and passed.

Even with the 363 rwkw tune, i can still go down and pass emisions because the cruise tune is the same.

SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

not many things have been said that have been much use to the kid.

i'll throw in my 10c, dean.

obviously the main things you are bound by are having to run stock management, stock fuel system, standard turbo, and legal db exhaust. in order, this is how i'd approach those issues.

1. ECU - its a nissan, get it remapped at dr.drift - the computer remains standard in appearance, so even if they open it up, it won't be possible to tell that the map has been tinkered.

2. stock fuel system is a bit of a bitch, because we all know that more fuel is half the equation to more power. now days they have gauges to apply to your injectors, so no point in even putting in stock 'looking' injectors. fuel reg is also a limitation - however, you could try the old 'tap down' method of increasing pressure - or run dummy lines to the fuel reg and hide an adjustable reg elsewhere - bit shitty and not 'legal', but is another way. other than that, upgrade the intank pump to the biggest item possible, and then run it off a relay so that it is receiving a constant 12V and will be pumping at the highest pressure possible.

3. Turbo, only way to do it without any degree of worry is to hi-flow it and steel wheel it as has been suggested. the turbo will remain stock in external appearance, but obviously perform better.

4. exhaust, not much you can do about this. however, you could possibly install a vaccum operated baffle, similar to the apexi EVC. have seen one in an HPI mag that opens using a wastegate mechanism when it senses boost. seeing as EPA only tests the car in a stationary position, the turbo will never come onto boost with no load on the engine. i know that the apexi EVC is illegal because it allows full control by the owner. but with a vaccum operated system this is not the case. and to further the argument, the golf R32 uses this exact method in their exhaust system, bypassing the rear muffler under full load.

hope that helps you out a bit mate.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Well the 2nd post pretty much covered it i reckon, yours indeed adds some good light too.

I have some points to yours though, to keep the ball rolling :D

1. Cant be done without a chip... or can it now? Been a while since i saw Sam in action with the R33 ECU.

EPA open the ECU covers if they suspect its non-factory, see a chip, its all over.

Im sitting not too far from the 270-280rwkw target on factory just about everything.

2. Stock fuel reg is not a limitation, nor is the fuel system for his aim.

3. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

4. I disagree, plenty can be done about it if you go about it in a good manner.

I have a 92dB exhaust, 3.5" with 80mm twin dumps, two custom mufflers (over 350rwkw of flow there). Just about have it to the legal limit @ 5200rpm.

I believe it can be done even easier than how mine as the R33 has more room to move underside than a low HR31 ;)

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted (edited)

1. there is someone else in sydney who does remaps for r33's for around the $350 mark. i have spent alot of time and money on finding him so i will not disclose his information. LOL.

hit me up with a pm and ill give you his email.

2. Nismo FPR looks identical to the stock one, it even fits into the stock location. the only thing with that is it has an adjustable diaphragm which is visible.

3. You can get an aftermarket turbo engineered and the emissions test is done in neutral anyway, so it wont be hitting boost either way, in fact it will be leaner than stock since the turbo may spool at a later rpm.

4. i have no idea on this subject. i went from a 3" exhaust with a 5" tip, to a 3" exhaust with a 3.5" tip and it went louder. so im confused enough as it is.

Edited by SECURITY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...