Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cool mate, I am sure it will all work out for you.

FYI it doesn't matter that the wheels are the same dimensions - they HAVE to be oem parts. No ifs ands or buts. So if the compliance workshop doesn't have evidence for the exact part numbers of every single item in your car, they will have to do the evidence themselves (= mega $$$) or hopefully they can swap them for non-N series parts.

When does she get here? I am very keen to see it in the flesh!

Due here in 4 weeks then 4 weeks for compliance etc, its cool they have a stock Caldina with all the parts they need to get it through, and it also has all the stock parts in the car anyway.

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sounds like a nice ride. out of interest, what made you go the Caldina over the Legnum (or Stagea)?

You mentioned fuel consumption, but I wouldnt imagine it to be that much different to a skyline... 200kw requires a reasonable amount of fuel regardless of 4 or 6 cylinders?

Sounds like a nice ride. out of interest, what made you go the Caldina over the Legnum (or Stagea)?

You mentioned fuel consumption, but I wouldnt imagine it to be that much different to a skyline... 200kw requires a reasonable amount of fuel regardless of 4 or 6 cylinders?

Can you believe that the Caldina uses 9.0 litres per 100klm now the 33 or 34 skyline is around 14 per 100kms!

Cheaper to run register and insure but still packs a punch.

Why did i choose this over a legnum?

Legnum is a v6 twin turbo with about 170kw and an outdated galant look and feel.

Legnums are less powerfull, more expensive to run register and insure.

And no one else has an N Series Caldina... dare to be different i guess.

Bah, as if Legnum sounds like a vegetable :D

Reason I was asking is because I just bought a Legnum from Auction in Japan last week. Now the wait begins!

I agree with Mitchy - I much prefer the look of the Legnum, but no doubt your car will be unique Cell :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...